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I reload a lot of the same calibers: .45 Auto, .30-06 for my Garand, .38 Special/.357 Magnum, and .45-70.

A couple things I learned:

I've become a believer in getting a separate die to crimp, and crimping and seating in separate steps. Especially with .45 Auto or any autoloading pistol cartridge, and ESPECIALLY if you are loading lead bullets. I'd also err on the side of over-expanding the case mouth with lead. I have a bunch of hard cast loads that won't fully chamber either because lead was squeezed over the brass in crimping or because the case shaved brass and lube when seating.

With roll-crimped cartridges, .38/.357 and .45-70, I've ended up with a lot of buckled brass from over-crimping jacketed bullets. You really do need a much lighter crimp with jacketed bullets (that's usually where I've had my problems).

.30-06 has been the easiest, probably because it's the last one I started reloading. The first powders I bought were IMR 4064 to H4895, and I learned I much prefer 4064, particularly in 168 grain. In addition to 168 grain BTHP from Hornady and Sierra, I've been loading Hornady 150 grain SSTs as a potential deer load, and they work great with an M2-size powder charge even though the cannelure is well north of the case mouth when I load to the M2 OAL. I bought a bulk order of the Prvi Partizan "For Rifle M1 Garand" stuff, and have been happy with the brass (and with the ammo itself, for that matter).