Reloading newbie

For those who like to roll their own.

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bauerdj
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Reloading newbie

#1

Post by bauerdj »

I am thinking of getting into reloading, at least in part for economic reasons. I have reloaded shotgun shells in the past, and using a Lee hand reloading kit, reloaded some .30 - .30 as well but that is the limit of my expierience (and that was last done over a decade ago.

I am primarily interested in reloading .45 ACP and .40 S & W, and possibly .380 ACP.

Do any of the reloading tool manufacturers offer a kit that contains all (or at least most) of the equipment required? What would be an approximate cost for a basic starting setup, and what are the must have items to get started? I would probably be reloading about 500 rounds per week so speed of production is not a major concern. I am on a limited budget so cost IS a big concern.

Dave B.

Venus Pax
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#2

Post by Venus Pax »

Like you, cost was a factor for me. I bought the Lee Anniversary kit.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=820810

I also bought a Lyman tumbler. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=158440 (I think I paid less for it through MidSouth, but can't remember exactly.)

Loading blocks are a necessity, IMO. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=767946

You'll want Lee Carbide dies. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=980287
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=280965
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=661032

I'm new to this reloading thing myself. I think most of the recent posts are mine, asking questions.
What I put links to are the basics for starting. You'll want other little tools later. I've been buying a little at a time. I started out with the Lee Anniversary Kit, a single set of carbide dies, a tumbler, and four reloading blocks. I paid around $200.

Each time I get paid, I add a little more to the collection. I recently bought a set of inexpensive calipers, a bullet puller, and another set of carbide dies (which I will be exchanging since they don't work).

I would tell you to get the ABCs of Reloading; it's a good book for newbies. But since you've done handloading with a Lee, it sounds like you know the basics.
"If a man breaks in your house, he ain't there for iced tea." Mom & Dad.

The NRA & TSRA are a bargain; they're much cheaper than the cold, dead hands experience.

jhutto
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#3

Post by jhutto »

500 a week it a lot. it wouldn't take long to re-coup the cost of a Dillon 550b press. I would go there before Lee... Personally....

ScubaSigGuy
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#4

Post by ScubaSigGuy »

Venus Pax wrote:Like you, cost was a factor for me. I bought the Lee Anniversary kit.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=820810

I also bought a Lyman tumbler. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=158440 (I think I paid less for it through MidSouth, but can't remember exactly.)

Loading blocks are a necessity, IMO. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=767946

You'll want Lee Carbide dies. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=980287
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=280965
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=661032

I'm new to this reloading thing myself. I think most of the recent posts are mine, asking questions.
What I put links to are the basics for starting. You'll want other little tools later. I've been buying a little at a time. I started out with the Lee Anniversary Kit, a single set of carbide dies, a tumbler, and four reloading blocks. I paid around $200.

Each time I get paid, I add a little more to the collection. I recently bought a set of inexpensive calipers, a bullet puller, and another set of carbide dies (which I will be exchanging since they don't work).

I would tell you to get the ABCs of Reloading; it's a good book for newbies. But since you've done handloading with a Lee, it sounds like you know the basics.
Venus,

What was wrong with the extra dies you bought? Just curious so I know what to look for. i wouldn't have thought there would be much that could wrong there, but i am just learning like yourself. OK I am a few steps behind you still actually :lol:
S.S.G.

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"A champion doesn’t become a champion in the ring. He is merely recognized in the ring.The ‘becoming’ happens during his daily routine." Joe Louis

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O6nop
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#5

Post by O6nop »

Venus Pax wrote: Loading blocks are a necessity, IMO. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=767946

I'm new at reloading too. Going the cheaper route yet, if the previous ammo boxes I've purchased in the past have the plastic ammo holders, I keep them and use them. If you don't buy box ammo there are usually lots laying around trash cans at the range.

I'm new to this reloading thing myself. I think most of the recent posts are mine, asking questions.

I'm thankful for most, if not all the questions you ask as well as every other newbie.

Each time I get paid, I add a little more to the collection.

good strategy, I do the same.

I would tell you to get the ABCs of Reloading; it's a good book for newbies. But since you've done handloading with a Lee, it sounds like you know the basics.

It's a good book regardless of experience, most data books have good info. The more books you have the better. Get books by the bullet makers, powder makers, reload equipment makers and so on.
I believe there is safety in numbers..
numbers like: 9, .22, .38, .357, .45, .223, 5.56, 7.62, 6.5, .30-06...

ScubaSigGuy
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#6

Post by ScubaSigGuy »

Bauerdj,

I was given this website <<www.brianenos.com>>to check out on a similar post that I made here yesterday. I have not checked it out yet but I am told that they have some package deals there. If I find anyhting that I think might help you while I am searching I'll post it here. I would also recommend reading Several of Venus' recent posts. I have found some very helpful information in the replies to her questions.


Happy hunting.
S.S.G.

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"A champion doesn’t become a champion in the ring. He is merely recognized in the ring.The ‘becoming’ happens during his daily routine." Joe Louis

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SRVA

#7

Post by SRVA »

Mr. Bauer, You are welcome to come by and take a look at my setup. PM me and I'll send you my contact information.

Steve

Venus Pax
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#8

Post by Venus Pax »

Scuba,
The depriming pin quit depriming after I ran about ten or fifteen casings through. (.380 acp dies.)
I tried to adjust it, but it wouldn't budge. Rather than risk breaking the whole thing, I'm just sending it back for a replacement.
"If a man breaks in your house, he ain't there for iced tea." Mom & Dad.

The NRA & TSRA are a bargain; they're much cheaper than the cold, dead hands experience.
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jbirds1210
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#9

Post by jbirds1210 »

SRVA wrote:Mr. Bauer, You are welcome to come by and take a look at my setup. PM me and I'll send you my contact information.

Steve
Good luck......I saw it and went directly into sensory overload.
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Tom
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#10

Post by Tom »

Venus Pax wrote:Scuba,
The depriming pin quit depriming after I ran about ten or fifteen casings through. (.380 acp dies.)
I tried to adjust it, but it wouldn't budge. Rather than risk breaking the whole thing, I'm just sending it back for a replacement.
VP,

If the pin is now well above the top of the die do the following with the die in the press with the lock ring tight:
get two wrenches;
loosen the top nut with one wrench by holding the die on its flat sides at the top with the other wrench;
put the pin back where you want it;
then tighten the nut more than you ever thought you could.
It needs to be really tight!!!

If these nuts are not really tight then the pin will slide up, which sounds like what happened to yours.
I have over a dozen of these Lee Carbide die sets and have had to make this adjustment on a couple of them.
Once adjusted you may never have to touch it again. Unless you try to deprime Berdan primed cases. :oops:

Kind Regards,

Tom

ScubaSigGuy
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#11

Post by ScubaSigGuy »

Venus Pax wrote:Scuba,
The depriming pin quit depriming after I ran about ten or fifteen casings through. (.380 acp dies.)
I tried to adjust it, but it wouldn't budge. Rather than risk breaking the whole thing, I'm just sending it back for a replacement.

Gotcha. Thanks!
S.S.G.

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"A champion doesn’t become a champion in the ring. He is merely recognized in the ring.The ‘becoming’ happens during his daily routine." Joe Louis

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Venus Pax
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#12

Post by Venus Pax »

Tom wrote:If the pin is now well above the top of the die do the following with the die in the press with the lock ring tight:
get two wrenches;
loosen the top nut with one wrench by holding the die on its flat sides at the top with the other wrench;
Tom,
I tried this, but I couldn't get either wrench to budge. I didn't want to risk breaking the whole thing.
Thanks for the advice though.
"If a man breaks in your house, he ain't there for iced tea." Mom & Dad.

The NRA & TSRA are a bargain; they're much cheaper than the cold, dead hands experience.

Tom
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2004 9:32 am
Location: NW Kerr County

#13

Post by Tom »

Venus Pax wrote:
Tom wrote:If the pin is now well above the top of the die do the following with the die in the press with the lock ring tight:
get two wrenches;
loosen the top nut with one wrench by holding the die on its flat sides at the top with the other wrench;
Tom,
I tried this, but I couldn't get either wrench to budge. I didn't want to risk breaking the whole thing.
Thanks for the advice though.
VP,

You are welcome.
These nuts can be tough to get loose. I cannot imagine that you could break them by trying to loosen them.
I have used some large wrenches on mine and have not hurt them yet.

Another suggestion whenever you get a new set of dies is to strip them down completely and clean every
part of them. I use either Ed's Red or Kroil, and Q-tips to ensure that there is nothing in the new die
that might cause a problem. An added plus is that it will take the mystery out of the inner workings of the dies.

Good Luck with your reloading.

Kind Regards,

Tom

O6nop
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#14

Post by O6nop »

Tom wrote:
Venus Pax wrote:
Tom wrote:If the pin is now well above the top of the die do the following with the die in the press with the lock ring tight:
get two wrenches;
loosen the top nut with one wrench by holding the die on its flat sides at the top with the other wrench;
Tom,
I tried this, but I couldn't get either wrench to budge. I didn't want to risk breaking the whole thing.
Thanks for the advice though.
VP,

You are welcome.
These nuts can be tough to get loose. I cannot imagine that you could break them by trying to loosen them.
I have used some large wrenches on mine and have not hurt them yet.

Another suggestion whenever you get a new set of dies is to strip them down completely and clean every
part of them. I use either Ed's Red or Kroil, and Q-tips to ensure that there is nothing in the new die
that might cause a problem. An added plus is that it will take the mystery out of the inner workings of the dies.

Good Luck with your reloading.

Kind Regards,

Tom
I had to replace the pin in one of my dies. I ordered it from Lee. It took a lot to get the lock nut to budge. I put the wrenches on so that they were offset just a little, laid it on it's side and leaned on the wrench that was more elevated. It can be done. Or try some 'cheater' bars, a pair of pipes that fit over the wrenches, making them essentially, longer.
I believe there is safety in numbers..
numbers like: 9, .22, .38, .357, .45, .223, 5.56, 7.62, 6.5, .30-06...

Hamourkiller
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#15

Post by Hamourkiller »

IMHO a man needs two reloading presses for rifle/pistol reloading.

1- An RCBS Rock Chucker or what ever they call thier O frame press now. You can find used ones if you look. They never wear out.

2- Dillon 550 B for volume reloading.

With the O frame you can load small #s and work up your various loads. It is a very versatile machine.

With the Dillon you can set up with your favorite calibers and load away until you are broke from buying components. I always like to set it up for let us say .38 special. Come home from work and turn out a few hundred rounds or so and stop. Do this each day until you have the amount loaded you want. Then adjust for .357 mag and start again.

Have fun and be safe with the reloading
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