I think the master or slave cylinder in my car is going out

[flintknapper]

Replacing the master or slave cylinder is a "do it yourself type thing" for most young men.

Neither item is particularly expensive. Replacing the clutch....OTOH, involves removing the transmission, and if you haven't done that before (or don't have the tools) it will need to be farmed out.

If you don't already know how to diagnose the M&S cylinders, purchasing a "Chilton" (or similar) manual for your vehicle will only set you back $20.00 or so.

Good luck, hope it isn't the clutch.

[Commander Cody]

Have you checked the fluid level in the clutch reserviour? I have a MX-5. That has been a problem in the past. I know the fluid has to go somewhere, but it would take an awful long time to get low. Also maybe air in a line.

[mr.72]

1. You don't likely need a new clutch
2. Most likely it's just low in fluid
3. Most likely it's the slave cylinder leaking, this is a common problem with many Mazdas and it is benign other than annoying
4. If you don't top up the fluid and it runs too low you are going to get stranded somewhere because you won't be able to get the car started since it will be stuck "in gear"

Even though the slave cylinder is probably the problem, you just need to top up the fluid in the master cylinder and leave it alone. My Miata leaks enough for it to bother me about once a year, and I just top it up.

Be careful when topping it up, DO NOT SPILL IT. Brake fluid will strip the paint off of the car and likely make it nearly impossible to re-paint later on. DOT3 fluid should work fine.

If you top up the fluid (to the "full" line), and then tomorrow the level is low, then you have a severe leak and you need a slave cylinder rebuild kit, which is cheap and reasonably easy to repair yourself.

If the level is not low but it feels funny, then it probably is a bent finger on the pressure plate or a stuck or sticking collar on the throw-out bearing. That's a whole different, more complicated, and more expensive set of problems. BTDT!

[flintknapper]

Both cylinders could probably be had for about a $100.00 if you want/need to fix them.

Alternatively, repair kits are available too at a savings:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/searc ... 66974+6652" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/searc ... 66974+6717" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Your local NAPA store (or other) should be able to help you out.

A failed clutch generally slips...and you would have noticed it before this. A pressure plate failure is usually catastrophic and you definitely would have known about that.

Most likely you have a seal failure...that has caused the fluid level to drop or is allowing fluid to seep around the seal in the bore of the master of slave. If topping off the fluid...doesn't do the trick, look for evidence of fluid leakage at one of the cylinders and replace that one. If both are leaking, replace or repair both and be done with it. Bleed the system and go!


Caveat: None of the above is applicable if you have the habit of revving up the engine and dumping the clutch!

[mr.72]

yeah so it leaks all out in 5 years ... sounds about like my Mazda!

if there are air bubbles in the line you may have to bleed it. I never have. If you let it run ALL THE WAY out then you'll have to bleed it. If it works, don't worry about it IMHO.

[HighVelocity]

The fluid does not evaporate. The only way it would be near empty is if there's a leak. Look under the dash at the top of the clutch pedal linkage and see if there's anything wet. Also, check for fluid on the firewall near the master cylinder mounting bolts and follow the hose from the clutch master cylinder down to the slave that's mounted on the transmision. If you don't see any wetness, pull the rubber boot back a little. If it's dry inside then it's ok.

If it's a tiny leak, you may be able to nurse it along for a while, just keep an eye on the fluid level.

[mr.72]

HV, some Mazdas are well-known for their tendancy to have a continuous very slow slave cylinder leak. At least Miatas are known to have this, a slow leak that never accelerates, you just put fluid in annually and go with it.

I suspect that's the same problem with the MX-6 and not a problem requiring an immediate or major remedy.

but I know about 10,000,000x as much about Miatas as I do about MX-6's! Given how little I know about Miatas, that ain't saying much...

[flintknapper]

oh my gosh, nevermind.

I just saw a reservoir nestled way in the back that also said "Use DOT 3" on the top of the cap. Opened it up and it was practically bone dry.

Filled it up, I'm gonna go give it a test drive. Hopefully I didn't cause any major damage.

Since I bought this car 5 years ago I've never looked nor even seen that particular container.

Ugh

Uhhhh-Huhhhh!


Well, just keep your eye on it to make sure you don't have any air in the system (air is compressible, liquids are not).

[flintknapper]

I've been under the petal before a few days ago. Didn't really see or feel anything besides lots of grease.

I honestly don't know how to tell if there's air in it or not. I filled it up and it shifted quite a bit nicer... so... that's where I'm at lol

It will feel "spongy, mushy" instead of having a strong hydraulic feel to it. Sometimes just using it is enough to rid it of small amounts of air (especially if it has a leak). Other times you'll have to bleed it.

[Commander Cody]

Usually just pumping the pedal 25 or so times will relieve the air. At least it did in my Miata.