MaduroBU wrote:If you solder it, remember a few things.
1.) Get a bigger torch than you think you'll need. A TS8000 with MAPP gas Heats the pipe faster and makes it easier to heat everything evenly.
2) the pipe cannot be too clean. You need to use emery cloth and/or a wire brush until the pipe surface is as shiny as copper that you just cut. Grind a piece of waste pipe with a dremel tool grinding wheel. THAT'S how shiny you need the pipe to be before you flux it.
3.) Flux anywhere that you want solder to stick. Solder won't stick to pipe that isn't clean and fluxed. Solder won't stay around forever, and will burn away if you're heating the pipe for a full minute trying to get it all hot at once. See point 1.
4.) Use lead free plumbing solder.
MAPP gas (comes in the yellow instead of blue can) Heats the pipe faster
tip: (not withstanding gravity,) solder flows towards the heat source so you'd heat the middle of a fitting instead of the edge of one.
having soldered repairs and using the sharkbite slip fix .... do the slip fix (not copler) because you'll need to slip it onto a section, then slip it bacvk off part way to put the other section back in (that's why the longer repair probite/sharkbite slip coupling instead of tyhe normal short coupling ... and that maneuver is tougher to do with soldering)
If you decide to solder you may need four 90 degree Ells and short sections of pipee between them (or 4 street ells) and in order to get both ends back into couplers on the ends because the existing pipe doesn't shrink or stretch a lot ...
This shows the repair slip fitting ( as well as a valve, but you can use 2 slip repair fittings or a coupler and a slip repair fitting with a short piece of copper or PEX)