Thanks for replies. I contacted Gemtech and they echoed the answers here with the caveat that they will void the warranty on any of their cans used with a pinned/welded mount that they didn't affix themselves. They said that runs about $250-$300 plus the cost of the mount ($100).
I'll post pics and loads when this is all done if anyone is interested as it seems like it will be a perfect little gun for hunting deer or hogs from a box stand or in brush.
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Return to “Pinned and Welded Muzzle Device”
- Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:07 pm
- Forum: Rifles & Shotguns
- Topic: Pinned and Welded Muzzle Device
- Replies: 4
- Views: 2637
- Fri Oct 13, 2017 9:49 am
- Forum: Rifles & Shotguns
- Topic: Pinned and Welded Muzzle Device
- Replies: 4
- Views: 2637
Pinned and Welded Muzzle Device
I intend to buy a K&M M17s .300 Blk when it becomes available (we're now going on 9 months of "Soon"). My goal is a 26" replacement for the Marlin 1895 and Winchester 1894 .30-30s with which I hunted deer in my youth. These guns come with 17.5" barrels because the OVERALL LENGTH would fall below the minimum with a shorter barrel. The .300 Blackout is standardized around 16", and the additional 1.5" is well beyond the point of diminishing returns for velocity.
I will hand load 150 gr Hornady SSTs for hunting with Lil' Gun (Hodgdon RDC says 2050 FPS from a 16" fixed barrel, so subtract 20-30FPS for the gas system) and 150 gr FMJ-BT bulk bullets ( over either Lil' Gun or, if the reports about it "running hot" prove true, CFE Black) for practice and fun.
I will use a can, and intend to have the same Gemtech bilock muzzle brake on my .300 WSM on this gun so that I only need one rifle suppressor (at least until the addiction modifies my definition of "need" yet again). The 17.5" barrel that comes stock can be cut down to 15" before running into issues with the forend (a single aluminum extrusion is the handguard and upper receiver). I spoke with Ken (the owner of the shop that builds them) via email, and he said that there may be some adjustment required to get it to cycle reliably wih a shorter barrel, though the gas block is fully adjustable.
I don't want an SBR, as I want to be able to remove my can and allow others to use the rifle. If my dad or anyone else at the deer lease is in a particularly cramped box stand while I am in a field, I want to be able to trade guns without running afoul of the NFA. That said, the folks at the LGS mentioned that welding and pinning the muzzle brake/bilock mount onto a cut down barrel will still be a normal rifle so long as the length remains over 26". That would make it more compact with the can attached, while leaving it very short if I loan it to someone.
I see several potential downsides, and wanted to solicit advice:
1.) I heard wrong at the LGS and would be violating the NFA if I tried this method of shortening the rifle. Extremely bad.
2.) Welding and pinning the muzzle brake ruins the barrel and turns it into a 50 yard gun. Very bad.
3.) The muzzle brake, being very close to the user's front hand, shoots hot gas onto your hand if you shoot it, at best requiring the use of a glove or at worst the use of a can (effectively undermining my ability to loan it to other hunters/shooters). Situationally bad.
4.) The muzzle brake wears rapidly and becomes useless, forcing me to get another barrel. Though I wish K&M all the best, small firearms companies go under all the time, and there may be no one to buy a new barrel from when I need it, leaving me with an unsuppressable gun which I must dress up as Michael Jackson (one glove) to shoot. Given the caliber and barrel length, likely an imagined problem.
I will hand load 150 gr Hornady SSTs for hunting with Lil' Gun (Hodgdon RDC says 2050 FPS from a 16" fixed barrel, so subtract 20-30FPS for the gas system) and 150 gr FMJ-BT bulk bullets ( over either Lil' Gun or, if the reports about it "running hot" prove true, CFE Black) for practice and fun.
I will use a can, and intend to have the same Gemtech bilock muzzle brake on my .300 WSM on this gun so that I only need one rifle suppressor (at least until the addiction modifies my definition of "need" yet again). The 17.5" barrel that comes stock can be cut down to 15" before running into issues with the forend (a single aluminum extrusion is the handguard and upper receiver). I spoke with Ken (the owner of the shop that builds them) via email, and he said that there may be some adjustment required to get it to cycle reliably wih a shorter barrel, though the gas block is fully adjustable.
I don't want an SBR, as I want to be able to remove my can and allow others to use the rifle. If my dad or anyone else at the deer lease is in a particularly cramped box stand while I am in a field, I want to be able to trade guns without running afoul of the NFA. That said, the folks at the LGS mentioned that welding and pinning the muzzle brake/bilock mount onto a cut down barrel will still be a normal rifle so long as the length remains over 26". That would make it more compact with the can attached, while leaving it very short if I loan it to someone.
I see several potential downsides, and wanted to solicit advice:
1.) I heard wrong at the LGS and would be violating the NFA if I tried this method of shortening the rifle. Extremely bad.
2.) Welding and pinning the muzzle brake ruins the barrel and turns it into a 50 yard gun. Very bad.
3.) The muzzle brake, being very close to the user's front hand, shoots hot gas onto your hand if you shoot it, at best requiring the use of a glove or at worst the use of a can (effectively undermining my ability to loan it to other hunters/shooters). Situationally bad.
4.) The muzzle brake wears rapidly and becomes useless, forcing me to get another barrel. Though I wish K&M all the best, small firearms companies go under all the time, and there may be no one to buy a new barrel from when I need it, leaving me with an unsuppressable gun which I must dress up as Michael Jackson (one glove) to shoot. Given the caliber and barrel length, likely an imagined problem.