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der Teufel wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 10:24 am Yeah, I have an original Photon IR scope on another rifle. It's very useful out to about 80-100 yards, more if there's moonlight and the target isn't in shadow. In the early pre-dawn time (about an hour before actual sunup) I can see hogs a half mile distant if they're in the open even though I can't see anything 20 yards away in the darkness.

My FLIR optic (it's a previous generation version to the current 1.25-5x ThOR) claims to detect a heat source at 625 yards, recognize it as animal at 280 yards, and identify what kind of animal well enough to shoot it at 170 yards. Since I imagine that most night hunting shots would take place well inside 170 yards, I figured it would be enough. I couldn't afford one of the higher magnification units, at twice the price.

der Teufel wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 6:07 pm

The Annoyed Man wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 5:43 pm What optic are you using?

It's an IR Hunter MK3 60mm thermal weapon sight.
I think Trijicon bought IR Hunter a year or two ago, so it may be marketed under that brand now.

Normally the video is MUCH better. I'm going to see if I can repair my old cable.

I own a ATN ThOR 1.25-5X IR sight, but haven’t used it for a hunt yet. Heck, haven’t even zeroed it yet, since I’m not sure how to accomplish that during daylight hours at a public range.

der Teufel wrote: ↑Thu May 30, 2019 3:21 pm I've been continuing to play/work with this suppressor over the past year or so, and I believe I'm getting everything sorted out. The POI still changes sometimes after bouncing the rifle around for a while, but things have settled in to a satisfactory degree. I'm using it regularly on hogs these days. Here's a video of a recent hunt. The victim was a 195 Lb boar which was shot at a distance of about 75 yards.



The video quality leaves something to be desired. I think my cable is causing some difficulty but you'll get the idea …

What optic are you using?

der Teufel wrote:Okay, third time was the charm. I finally received a reply, and it was informative.

The old Taper Mount Muzzle Brake is no longer available.
It has been replaced by the Paladin 2 Port Brake. These are available. I have ordered one.

I do wish I could have learned this earlier … but at least this issue seems to be resolving.

der Teufel, is the Paladin muzzle brake still a taper mount?

Abraham wrote:I salute all of you talented guys who build your own suppressors, wow, I'm in awe.

As you may ascertain from my post above, I have neither the tools or talent or confidence to build a suppressor. If I tried it'd be a Homer Simpson special, which would undoubtedly explode with the first shot, wrecking my gun and catching at least 12 nearby homes on fire.

Now, on to a few questions: Does anyone here think the cost of suppressors will go down dramatically "IF" the HPA passes?

I think I read (somewhere...?) that reasonable quality, if not very good quality suppressors sell for much lower cost in other parts of the world.

True?

False?

Thanks!

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017 ... opinion-3/

Today, while the market waits to see if the bill is going to pass, suppressor companies are seeing demand drop significantly. In fact, suppressor giant SilencerCo has announced a series of layoffs due to cratering demand as buyers are looking to potentially avoid the recently enacted 41F rules. As an FFL myself, I’ve seen my suppressor transfer business crater in the last month alone.

If the HPA does not pass, it will largely be a return to business as normal, with likely steady increases in NFA items sales as the ATF works to get down processing times under the new administration and as the demand for suppressors increases.

But… what if the HPA passes?

I see three phases to the post HPA world.

I think the author has a pretty good handle on how things will play out if it passes.

der Teufel wrote:

The Annoyed Man wrote:Excellent! Congratulations on getting it put together. Fun, isn't it?

It was indeed a fun and interesting challenge. If the Hearing Protection Act passes, I'll probably do another one or two.

I noticed, however, that the links on page 2 of this thread that TAM originally posted regarding parts from SD Tactical Arms are now 404 and I can't find the threaded tubes on their web site. I wonder if they're undergoing some changes, or if they've quit offering component pieces. I may have to call and find out what's up.

The ATF shut them down a few days ago. http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017 ... rap-parts/

Excellent! Congratulations on getting it put together. Fun, isn't it?

Odiferous wrote:

der Teufel wrote:...except that the Griffin Taper Mount Muzzle Brakes are suddenly made of unobtanium...

If you're after the minimalist, Schuyler has them available.

The Annoyed Man wrote:...when I had the challenge coin in mine, it would get so tight onto the Griffin taper mount after shooting a while that I couldn't get the adapter dismounted from the mount...

The challenge coin came about as a fix when some folks complained that the acme threads on the SDTA muzzle brakes wouldn't stay tight. The regular threads and 12° taper on the Griffin brakes don't seem to have the same problem.

Welcome to the forum, and thanks for the info. Good to know.

der Teufel wrote:The suppressor is all together, and I was going to try it out last weekend but the rain kept me from doing that. I planned to shoot on some family property NE of New Braunfels, but it was way too muddy. Soon, I hope …

I built this up specifically for my 300 BLK rifle, but figured I can also use it on my AR-10 — except that the Griffin Taper Mount Muzzle Brakes are suddenly made of unobtanium. Apparently Griffin is retooling, and the shelves are bare. Oh well, I still get to try it out and the AR-10 will just have to wait a while for its turn.
--

One thing to be aware of..... when I had the challenge coin in mine, it would get so tight onto the Griffin taper mount after shooting a while that I couldn't get the adapter dismounted from the mount, not even by waiting until everything cooled. I had to unscrew the tube/bafflestack/endcap from the adapter, and then wrap a rag around the adapter get after it with a pair of channel locks to get it off. After this happened 3 or 4 times, I removed the challenge coin and cut me a new piece of inner blast chamber tubing (Ti, of course), and reassembled everything minus the challenge coin. End of problem. But I kept the two pieces of inner tubing that go with the challenge coin in the event that I end up with the suppressor mounted to a rifle where it doesn't get over-tightened.

The Silencer Shop shows the flash-hider version of the Griffin taper mount in 5/8-24 as in stock.

AndyC wrote:

Pro-tip - cut your blast-chamber about 1/8" longer than you measured, because the plugs will settle a little bit after the first 10 rounds or so.

Yep yep yep! He's right. It may take 100 rounds, but it WILL settle in.

rm9792 wrote:No, I haven't met anyone at ETTS. From my research the maker (manufacturer) can repair a suppressor. I assume that's me. Will be writing the ATF to ask for clarification since I cant get a definite answer one way or another. You can buy pistons and such at a lot of places so I am not sure whats different about that. I know the tube is serialed but the other parts aren't. I lost all those replacement baffles last night though, wonder what happened to them...

I just form 4'd another suppressor yesterday, and the guy at The Silencer Shop to,d me that pistons are an over the counter part and not ATF controlled. I bought a Rugged Obsidian 45, which will take a 9mm piston, so I'll have a multi caliber pistol can. In fact, it will suppress a 9mm more effectively than many 9mm cans.

rm9792 wrote:Someone asked about advantages to building your own. 2 main ones I like are the cost and you can make adaptable ones. A friend got a lathe and got real good at making baffles. We made multiple sets for different calibers and you can get the tube and different mounts (threads) online for cheap. So with one registered titanium tube I can attach to everything from .17 to .45acp. Just change baffles and endcaps. We even figured out to open up an end cap to accept Liberty Mystic suppressor pistons so the .45 will cycle.

Did I meet you at ETTS a couple of weeks ago, on the 100/200 yard sighting in range? I spoke with someone who talked about him and a friend buying a lathe and making their own suppressors. My son and I were there with our homemade suppressors, and we talked about sourcing of parts.

RogueUSMC wrote:Excellent info.

Let's say I did run it inside the hand guard. Unless I am shooting prone, I don't hold that far out. Offhand and sitting, I hold closer to the mag well. Will the aluminum transfer too much heat toward the rear of the hand guard? My hold will still be just behind the gas block even on a pistol gas.

OK..... I've added a tape measure to the picture of the two uppers. The can is 7.66" long. As you can see, 5.5" of the 7.66" long can would be underneath the 15" long hand guard......and that's with a 10.5" barrel. You didn't mention how long or short your SBR would be. I don't know how much the aluminum would conduct heat. It's not as good of a heat sink as steel is, but your talking about a full third or more of your hand guard covering the suppressor. Personally, if it was my SBR, I wouldn't do it. But that's just me. The good news is that if it becomes intolerable for you, you can always swap out the hand guard.

RogueUSMC wrote:excellent! I have a 15" free float hand guard on my 16" barrel and it extends my sight radius all the way out to the muzzle almost. I would like to SBR it and run the can inside the hand guard for roughly the same overall length.

Just be aware of your mounting system. Unless you're going to use a dedicated can and thread it directly to the muzzle, running the can inside of the hand guard can be a problem. ALSO.....and I can't stress this enough......the can will get HOT. REALLY HOT.......hotter than your barrel gets. And if your can is inside a hand guard, the hand guard will get hot. The KMR hand guard that is on my SBR has an ID of 1.3" - too small for the can. BUT.... my son also has one on his 16" carbine, and it gets hot enough just from the barrel heat under a lot of firing to require wearing gloves so as to not burn his hand. Assuming barrel OD of .75" at the gas block, that leaves a clearance of .275" all the way around the barrel under the 1.3" ID of the KMR hand guard. If the can is 1.5" OD, and your hand guard has probably 1.6" to 1.7" ID, that is .1" or less clearance between your hand guard and your can, and that is going to get hot enough to leave skin on the hand guard.

Given the heat, I'm not convinced it would be worth it to run the can inside the hand guard like that. Since you have to register the lower anyway, why not just build a second short barreled upper with an appropriate length of hand guard, and keep the carbine upper intact?

Here is the SBR with the carbine upper next to it. You can see that the hand guard on the SBR has a significantly smaller circumference than the 11" Rainier Arms/Samson Evo hand guard on the carbine. (I went with an 11" hand guard on the carbine because it's a mid-length gas-piston system, and I needed to be able to get to the gas adjuster on the gas block. Otherwise I would have gone with a 15" rail too for the 16" barrel.) The Evo has a 1.56" ID:



Here is the SBR with the can mounted, with the carbine upper next to it. You can see that the SBR with the can is still a half inch or more shorter than the carbine. Also, you can see that the can's 1.5" OD would fit inside the carbine hand guard's 1.56" ID......but just barely (the can pictured here is a AAC 762-SDN-6, but it is also a 1.5" OD can, so for the purposes of illustration it works). And, the can gets HOT, like I said you can leave skin on it if you don't have a heat cover on it.......and with the cover, it won't fit under the rail. And it won't work with a ratchet type of mount at all - in the event you decide to buy a commercial can with a 51T or similar mounting system - because you can't get to the ratchet to release it if it is hidden under the rail.

RogueUSMC wrote:What is the OD on the tube?

1.5"