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iratollah wrote: ↑Wed Apr 29, 2020 6:33 pm Friend had me take a photo of his Mossberg 590A1 Retrograde with social distancing gauge. IMHO, this may be one of the best looking shotties on the market today.

I have the regular black tactical version—same features minus the wood furniture and heat shield. It’s a great shotgun, and I have no regrets buying it. But I have to say, if this Retro version were available back when I bought mine, I’d have bought the Retro instead.

TxRVer wrote: ↑Sat Jan 11, 2020 4:02 pm Here it is. Springfield National Match NA9802.

Noice!

WTR wrote:

Liberty wrote:In Hindsight I should have used a good set of quick releases. One thing I have learned is if you sight it in at 25 Yards you're pretty much good to go out to 300 yards. Sighting / resighting in a .308 is pretty easy and can be done with a half box of ammo. The thing is, I only have access to a 100 yard range so I don't have a lot of motivation to lower the scope at this time but it is something I probably will change sooner or later. I do think that sling might be a better investment to my shooting skills though.

If you sight in at 25 yards as a zero, you are going to be + or - 15 " low at 300 yards.depending on bull it weight. You also can sight in with just two shots at 25 yards. Save some ammo or fun shoot .

There is a VERY good online ballistic calculator at http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi. In my own 16” Gunsite Scout, I have chronographed a real world average velocity of 2537 fps with a SD of 24.8, using a 175 grain SMK over 44 grains of Varget. My guess is that with Liberty’s 18” barrel, he’d be good for another 50 fps or so, but you should beg, borrow, or buy a chrono and make sure of what your load clocks in your rifle. EVERYthing depends on knowing that muzzle velocity number.

In any case, if you plug MY data into the JBM Ballistics calculator, and at the bottom check “Zero at Max Point Blank Range”, it returns a very useful data set. For rifles that either have iron sights, or lack a subtended reticle in their scopes, you can know the ideal zero distance, and what your +/- values are along the trajectory. With my scope height of 1.75” above the bore, and the target’s “vital radius” set to 5.0” (a 10” circle), here’s some of the critical numbers:

Initial zero is somewhere just past 20 yards.....

25 yards - 0.3” high
50 yards - 2.0” high
75 yards - 3.3” high
100 yards - 4.3” high
125 yards - 4.8” high
150 yards - 5.0” high
175 yards - 4.7” high
200 yards - 4.0” high
225 yards - 2.8” high
250 yards - 1.2” high
265 yards - 0.0”
275 yards - 0.9” low
300 yards - 3.5” low
310 yards - 4.7” low

So to maintain a “point and click” zero that will fall inside of a 10” circle during its entire trajectory, your MPBR is 310 yards ...... which is about as far as you have any business shooting an animal with a Gunsite Scout.....and you have a 20/265 yard zero. Your bullet will never be more than 5” high or low along its trajectory, relative to the point of aim. If you’re trying to hit a man, then hunting ethics don’t matter, and you can extend that range quite a bit further. With a 9” radius (18” target circle), you extend your MPBR to 395 yards with a 15/335 yard zero.

The bigger the radius, the further your MPBR will be, but you’ll also run into the practical. Choosing a 15” radius gives you a 30” circle, which decreases your number of hits on a target that is smaller than that. If the average man is 18” across at the shoulders, that’s a lot of misses. If you credit the average buck with 15” from spine to brisket and set your target radius accordingly, that’s a lot of wounded deer getting away and suffering unnecessarily. So you have to exercise some wisdom in figuring out what is going to work best for you. I decided for myself to keep it based on a 5” radius target, and then I can be sure of delivering a fatal hit out to 310 yards, without having to make adjustments in the scope, or changing my hold-overs. That’s my personal limit for me. Everyone has to decide for themselves what they are comfortable with.

Maximum Point Blank Range numbers give you the same kind of data set that calculation systems such as the Santoz Improved 50 meter Battle Zero give you for an AR platform rifle..... you can turn your cross hairs or iron sights into a point and click interface. Place the sight, dot, or crosshairs in the middle of that 10” or 18” circle, and you can be reasonably certain that your bullet will land somewher in that circle. For a white tail deer or a hog, that 10” circle represents the vital zone for an ethical kill. For a man, that 18” circle represents a torso hit - which, with a .308 inside of 500 yards is going to be a devastating wound. It’s not that I want to cause suffering if I have to shoot a man, but if I have cause to be shooting at a man, I don’t much care if the bullet wounds or kills him. I just want him to stop shooting at me.

In any case, MPBR is more important to me if I don’t have a subtended reticle. My GSR has a MRAD reticle with plenty of subtendsions, so I have an easier time figuring out hold-over changes if necessary. The plain Jane duplex reticle in the scout scope on my Marlin is makes figuring out the MPBR much more important. Fortunately, I have the muzzle velocities with my ammo of choice in that rifle too - Hornady Leverevolution 160 grain FTX at 2360 fps, and Remington Core-Lokt 170 grain SP at 2159 fps.

Scott B. wrote:

ThistleWerke wrote:

Is this brown enough?

It's a little red.

Nice.

Well, it’s a commie gun. What did you expect?

Liberty wrote:I have the 18" Stainless GSR, with a x 2.5 Leopold that is forward mounted on see-thru mounts. I had to add a cheekpad to allow a good cheekweld while using the scope. I also replaced the flash hider with the thread protector.

The stainless 18” version wasn’t available when I bought mine, or I might well have bought that instead. I don’t feel like an extra 2” of barrel would be that much more noticeably cumbersome. One note..... I found out the hard way that there is truth to a certain rumor I had heard about the barrel threading on the Gunsite Scouts not being concentric to the bore. It’s not far off enough to make a difference if your muzzle device is something short like a flash hider or muzzle brake, but with a suppressor, it’s a real problem. The one in the picture is an AAC 762-SDN-6 mounted on a 3-prong AAC flashhider. It was a tiny bit off center at the can’s exit, but not enough to cause contact with the bullet. However, it caused the gun to become wildly inaccurate. So then I switched over to a Griffin Armaments short 2 chamber muzzle brake with a taper mount, and tried using my Form 1 can. It looked more centered than the other can when I stuck a bore guide in it, although it was still not perfectly concentric. However, I couldn’t even get the bullets on paper at 50 yards. So I gave up and took the can off, and bingo......multiple baffle strikes, and strikes on the inside of the endcap. I am darn lucky I didn’t blow the can up!

I just said to heck with it, and I’m not going to use a can on it any longer. But I am going to leave that Griffin muzzle brake on it. It mitigated the recoil quite nicely, and didn’t seem to add to the volume of the muzzle blast any. But i am done with trying to mount a can on the thing. I thought (briefly) about rebarreling it with a higher quality 18” threaded barrel like a Kreiger or something, cerakoting it, and trying again; but that would be an expensive proposition, which I am not convinced is worth doing.

So I’m just going to enjoy the rifle for what it is until then and not try to trick it out any more.....although I might have my son do a trigger job on it. I have two other .308s, and one of them (SCAR 17S) suppresses quite nicely with my Form 1 can, and I can have the barrel threaded on my Remington 700 by a competent gunsmith for a lot less money than it would cost to tart up the RGS to accept a can.

My scope is lower to the barrel than yours, so an elevated cheek rest isn’t necessary. It looks like you’re using “look through” rings? I solved it by using quick-release Burris XTR tactical rings. The scope sits lower to the bore, and if it needs to be removed for any reason, popping two levers open gets it off the rail quickly, and bingo - iron sights. If remounted, it’s not going to return to perfect zero, but it will be close enough for quick and dirty, and can be adjusted on the fly fairly quickly with that milling reticle and matching .1 mil clicks on the turrets.

I like my scopes nice and low. Here’s the driver’s seat view on the Marlin:



And here’s what it looks like from behind on the Ruger:



I am a fan of these rifles, and the scout concept, despite the ridicule some people heap on them. Like a good lever action, they make a good truck gun, and they’re just a good general purpose bolt gun.

Scott B. wrote:You would be correct! Me too.

Me three.

Now, I’ve already got a beautiful M1 carbine, so if these are both taken or more than I can afford, I’m OK. But I’d sure like to have a second one that’s dinged up enough already to serve as a truck gun.

Vol Texan wrote:Among other things, I picked these eight ladies up after Harvey hit here in Houston. A neighbor asked me if I'd help her sell her husband's guns - he'd passed away just a month before the hurricane hit, she wanted nothing to do with these after he was gone.

She offered to let me keep one of these M1 Carbines as a commission for helping out - and I chose the Standard Products as my own. I sold the Winchester, the RockOla, the National Postal Meter, and the IBM within the first month, and the Quality Hardware went this week. Only two more remain - an Underwood and a Saginal S'G'. Hopefully these will find a forever home soon enough.

How much are you asking for those M1s? I wouldn’t mind ownin a second one.

Scott B. wrote:

SQLGeek wrote:

Scott B. wrote:

The Annoyed Man wrote:Ruger Gunsite Scout (technically, dark gray, but it IS a wooden stock):

I like it!

It is a nice rifle even if it is wrong handed.

And it' s not really set up scout style, but then again that's exactly how I'd set up one too.

I 've made a serious tactical error, this thread might cost me some serious $$.

You’re welcome.

I originally had it set up scout style with a forward mounted Leupold 1.5-5x33 Scout Scope, but my eyesight has really gone downhill over the last couple of years, so almost a year ago, I got rid of the OEM rail and rear sight, substituted the XS Sight Systems rail with integral ghost ring sight, and mounted a 2-10x32 Vortex Viper PST FFP MRAD scope instead. The Leupold is a nice scope with good glass, but I prefer having a reticle with either MOA or MRAD subtendsions that match the type of adjustments on the turrets. The Vortex has a nice illuminated MRAD reticle with more elevation adjustment range built into it than the rifle can take full advantage of. The Leupold just has a plain duplex reticle with their “Firedot” in the center of the crosshairs. The 2x at the low end of the Vortex wasn’t all that much more magnification than the 1.5x at the low end of the Leupold, but the Vortex gives me twice as much magnification at the high end without getting ridiculously too big for the rifle. Since I have no plans to use this rifle in CQB, I’m not worried about low end magnification much.

So, between the replacement rail and the scope and rings, I actually have a chunk more money in optics than I have in the rifle. But it’s a great scope and I like it on that rifle. In fact, I kept that scout scope, and when I bought my Marlin - pictured above - I added an XS Sight Systems rail and ghost ring sight to it too (and the matching front sight blade), and mounted that scout scope on it....where it is perfect for that rifle.

Liberty wrote:

The Annoyed Man wrote:Ruger Gunsite Scout (technically, dark gray, but it IS a wooden stock):

What is that sling you have on that GSR?

It’s a Galco Safari “Ching Sling” - the type of sling recommended by Col Cooper himself for scout type rifles: https://www.galcogunleather.com/safari- ... _1257.html

https://youtu.be/CKTC-OWuZ70

I love mine. The leather is still a little bit stiff because I haven’t actually used the sling very much in the field to carry and deploy the rifle, so it’s not fully broken in yet, but like most Galco products, it is exceptionally well made, and in my opinion, certainly worth the $80 they charge for it. I expect it to last as long as the rifle does. I have several other slings, mostly VTAC slings for my ARs, but this leather Ching sling is by far the nicest sling I have. If Ling New at Gunsite Academy says it works, then it works. I will tell you that you’ll spend a little time figuring out what adjustment settings work for you at your individual size. And because the brass studs and corresponding holes in the leather are meant to be left alone once your fit has been figured out, it’s a little bit of work to make those adjustments. But it does work exactly as advertised, and it makes for very stable shooting when away from the bench.

Ruger Gunsite Scout (technically, dark gray, but it IS a wooden stock):


Marlin 336BL:


Henry Lever Action .22 Octagonal:


1943 Inland M1 Carbine (also with 1943 Ithaca 1911A1):


Stoeger Condor Competition 12 gauge over/under shotgun:


And somewhere, I also have pictures of a 1936 Tula Hex Receiver Moisin-Nagant 91/30, and a Yldiz o/u 20 gauge. That’s all of my wood-stocked guns.