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rotor wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 10:49 pm After all of this my wife says the safe made funny beep sounds. Changed the battery's and all is well.

rotor wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:03 pm

puma guy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:31 pm I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

Glad you got it open. Harbor Freight has the tool called "push pin" pliers. I would blow out any dirt if you can get to the lock mechanism with those cans of compressed air and maybe consider spraying with CRC contact cleaner or those small cans of lock lubricant they sell at Lowes. Don't do WD40. Try the lock multiple times while the safe is open. I have an electronic safe which has a key backup if needed. Never had any problems, just change the battery's every few years (always use Duracell).

gljjt wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:25 am

rotor wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:03 pm

puma guy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:31 pm I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

Glad you got it open. Harbor Freight has the tool called "push pin" pliers. I would blow out any dirt if you can get to the lock mechanism with those cans of compressed air and maybe consider spraying with CRC contact cleaner or those small cans of lock lubricant they sell at Lowes. Don't do WD40. Try the lock multiple times while the safe is open. I have an electronic safe which has a key backup if needed. Never had any problems, just change the battery's every few years (always use Duracell).

Doesn't the key make the safe less secure? My key only locks the dial, it doesn't "unlock" the safe. I would think the key would be easy to pick with minimal skill.

gljjt wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:25 am Doesn't the key make the safe less secure? My key only locks the dial, it doesn't "unlock" the safe. I would think the key would be easy to pick with minimal skill.

Ruark wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:59 pm This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

Ruark wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:59 pm This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

Excaliber wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 8:48 am Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

puma guy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:28 am

Excaliber wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 8:48 am Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

Strangely Cannon recommends lubricating. I used to use powdered graphite on key locks, perhaps that's what Cannon was referring to. I am going to call a locksmith when my electronic lock arrives and I'll see what problem he discovers with my existing dial before I have him install the new lock.

Excaliber wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 11:30 am

puma guy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:28 am

Excaliber wrote: ↑Sun Jan 13, 2019 8:48 am Fort Knox offers safes with both electronic and mechanical combination locks on the same unit for bulletproof redundancy.

They cost a little more, but the cost difference would be more than eaten up if you have call in a safe expert to open your safe.

I would suggest having a local safe service guy service your lock while the safe is open. That is much cheaper than having to drill it open and you'll be sure the fix will be done right.

Do not oil a combination lock. The oil will eventually thicken and cause the kind of problem you've described.

Strangely Cannon recommends lubricating. I used to use powdered graphite on key locks, perhaps that's what Cannon was referring to. I am going to call a locksmith when my electronic lock arrives and I'll see what problem he discovers with my existing dial before I have him install the new lock.

Graphite is OK and I figure that lubes that leave a dry film behind would be OK too. I would suggest staying away from anything that leaves a wet surface once the carrier has evaporated (e.g. WD40)

ELB wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:45 pm

Ruark wrote: ↑Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:59 pm This is all making me nervous. We will probably be investing in a good safe soon, and I've always been leery of newfangled electronic mechanisms. Connections fail, batteries die, wires come loose, etc. I always assumed a mechanical device is more reliable. After reading this, though, I'm not so sure. What about other brands, like Liberty?

I recommend you go read what this guy has to say about gun safes, especially locks:

https://gunsafereviewsguy.com