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I hate reading this thread. I went with a mechanical dial lock specifically to avoid a problem from an electronic. Sounds like it can happen either way.

From what I've read mechanical locks need periodic maintenance (like every few years) as well. A safe tech should clean them and check for correct operation. Also, who makes the lock is important. Some brands are more reliable than others.

ELB wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 11:38 am From what I've read mechanical locks need periodic maintenance (like every few years) as well. A safe tech should clean them and check for correct operation. Also, who makes the lock is important. Some brands are more reliable than others.

Good info. Thanks for sharing.

03Lightningrocks wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 11:22 am I hate reading this thread. I went with a mechanical dial lock specifically to avoid a problem from an electronic. Sounds like it can happen either way.

It can happen either way but is more likely to be with an electronic lock- or so say the 2 locksmiths and the safe guy I consulted before buying mine. I think the brand of lock also helps... Sargent and Greenleaf locks are among the best. If you have to buy a new lock, got to the S&G website and find a local distributor.

flechero wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:43 pm

03Lightningrocks wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 11:22 am I hate reading this thread. I went with a mechanical dial lock specifically to avoid a problem from an electronic. Sounds like it can happen either way.

It can happen either way but is more likely to be with an electronic lock- or so say the 2 locksmiths and the safe guy I consulted before buying mine. I think the brand of lock also helps... Sargent and Greenleaf locks are among the best. If you have to buy a new lock, got to the S&G website and find a local distributor.

Mine is the Sargent dial lock. So far no problems but the darn thing is maybe 15 years old now.

03Lightningrocks wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 8:04 pm

flechero wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:43 pm

03Lightningrocks wrote: ↑Wed Jan 02, 2019 11:22 am I hate reading this thread. I went with a mechanical dial lock specifically to avoid a problem from an electronic. Sounds like it can happen either way.

It can happen either way but is more likely to be with an electronic lock- or so say the 2 locksmiths and the safe guy I consulted before buying mine. I think the brand of lock also helps... Sargent and Greenleaf locks are among the best. If you have to buy a new lock, got to the S&G website and find a local distributor.

Mine is the Sargent dial lock. So far no problems but the darn thing is maybe 15 years old now.

In my years in the USAF, every safe I saw and/or used to secure classified materials and equipment wore a Sargent and Greenleaf lock. The only times I ever saw them fail, it was not the lock's fault. It was the nimrod that botched a combo change.

Folks here might find this useful: What to look for in a gun safe: Gun Safe Locks

He recommends 1) S&G, 2)Kaba Mas/La Gard, and more important than brand name is a UL-rated lock.

He also notes that mechanical locks (and the whole locking mechanism of the safe) should be inspected and lubricated every 5 years.

I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

puma guy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:31 pm I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

Glad you got it open. Harbor Freight has the tool called "push pin" pliers. I would blow out any dirt if you can get to the lock mechanism with those cans of compressed air and maybe consider spraying with CRC contact cleaner or those small cans of lock lubricant they sell at Lowes. Don't do WD40. Try the lock multiple times while the safe is open. I have an electronic safe which has a key backup if needed. Never had any problems, just change the battery's every few years (always use Duracell).

rotor wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 5:03 pm

puma guy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:31 pm I have called Cannon safe several time and waited anywhere from a minimum of 45 minutes to as long as 1hr and 40 minutes without reaching anyone in customer service. There is some good news, though. We had Christmas this weekend for our two daughter's families that live out of town and my middle daughter suggested letting her husband attempt to open the safe. He tried several times with out success. He walked out of the room to load up to go home, so I thought I'd give it another try. After my second unsuccessful attempt I banged on the door with my fist. Tried the combination one more time and Wha! Lah! it caught on the stop and I got it open. Keep in mind I have beat on the door and dial with an rubber mallet and even a hammer with dense rubber mat to protect the door with no success! Should have used my fist I guess! LOL Now I have to decide if I'm going to close the safe and use the key lock on the dial that locks between the zero and the stop at #90 that allows the spoke wheel to open the bolts. The back of the safe door has fuzzy cloth covered sheetrock held in place with black plastic plugs of the kind used to hold auto door panels on. I'll have to get a tool at the auto supply to remove them in able access the lock to see if lubricating it will help. Even if I get it oiled I still don't think I'll trust the lock and I want to get in touch with Cannon, though to see if they can provide a new lock or perhaps an electronic set up. I'm hoping there's just a lot of post Christmas calls causing the long delays in reaching customer service.

Glad you got it open. Harbor Freight has the tool called "push pin" pliers. I would blow out any dirt if you can get to the lock mechanism with those cans of compressed air and maybe consider spraying with CRC contact cleaner or those small cans of lock lubricant they sell at Lowes. Don't do WD40. Try the lock multiple times while the safe is open. I have an electronic safe which has a key backup if needed. Never had any problems, just change the battery's every few years (always use Duracell).

This was the first safe I bought. I think it was about 14 years ago, a Model AE-22. If I can ever get in touch with Cannon, I'll try to verify that date. I have three other safes all with electronic locks and backup keys. I agree on the W40. I'd never use that stuff on anything that has moving parts, especially locks. I actually have some lock lubricant. Blowing it out with air is a good idea, too and I have some CRC Electronics cleaner as well I might use once I get into the back. Thanks for the Harbor Freight recommend; I didn't think of them.

I don't want to belabor this post much longer, but I thought I'd follow up after finally contacting Cannon's Customer Service. I called at 5:01AM PST and spoke with Armando. He told me the dial locks hardly ever fail and said I should call a locksmith to do maintenance on the lock. After relating to him that I had lubricated the lock and it still was hit or miss and that I was using the key function to open and that I didn't trust the dial he didn't offer any other solution until I asked if the dial lock could be replaced with and electronic lock. He told me they could so I asked how much fro the part and was told they provide the free of charge. He said all I had to do was send an email with photos of the front of the safe and that the email was on the website. I thanked him and after the call ended I went to the website and discovered there is no email listed there. I opened my email to check as I routinely do and saw an message from Cannon/Armando closing the ticket. I called back and asked where I could find an email address and was told to use the one on Amando's message. I sent a request in. I went back to my email and saw a couple more email's not related to my request, but one was to set up an account, which I did. Once I did that I saw a navigation link for "requests". It gave me the ability to explain the problems and a way to post the pictures directly on the request. We shall see what happens. I have to wonder why Armando didn't just connect me to the parts dept or at least tell me how I'd be able to contact. The account set up email was from Cannon for the account set up but it went to Alpha Guardian to navigate setting up my account. Sorry for the lengthy post but I though it might help someone shorten dealing with Cannon in the future. Now I'll wait to see what happens with my request.

Flyincowboy wrote: ↑Tue Jan 01, 2019 5:50 pm I have the same safe. It used to have the mechanical dial. I always had a difficult time with opening it. I would always just lock the dial and use the key. Well the keys got lost and I called Cannon they said they no longer make the keys and to call a lock Smith. They also sent me a free Electronic lock system for me to have installed on the safe. When I had a lock smith come out to pick the key and install the new lock he had a very difficult tile working he combination. Upon getting the locking mechanism out he said that it was a very cheap made mechanism and it was not adjusted right for the numbers to align up properly. He tried to adjust it to make it work properly and was unable. Have not had any issues since installing the Electronic lock.

PM'd you.

WOW, I also have a Cannon Safe. Thought yrs ago when I bought mine that the electronic would be the way to go. Only trouble I ever had w/ it was I did let the 9 volt battery die on me once. That will never happen again. Mine is pushing 15yrs old and so far no other trouble after the self inflicted issue. Hope I never have to deal w/ any of this. My carry and home defense do not stay locked up but mine secures more than firearms and probably many of you do the same. Some of it I sure don't want to wait til next week if I need it today.
Thanks for the post.

longtooth wrote: ↑Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:06 am WOW, I also have a Cannon Safe. Thought yrs ago when I bought mine that the electronic would be the way to go. Only trouble I ever had w/ it was I did let the 9 volt battery die on me once. That will never happen again. Mine is pushing 15yrs old and so far no other trouble after the self inflicted issue. Hope I never have to deal w/ any of this. My carry and home defense do not stay locked up but mine secures more than firearms and probably many of you do the same. Some of it I sure don't want to wait til next week if I need it today.
Thanks for the post.

Most safes I see these day are equipped with electronic locks. I only have the one dial lock safe that I think was bought around 2003-2004, the other 3 are electronic. I received notice that Cannon shipped the electronic lock and all parts to convert it including a key. I'm going to try to do it myself, but may have to hire a locksmith if it proves too difficult.

After all of this my wife says the safe made funny beep sounds. Changed the battery's and all is well.