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I have that same gun and can't help but wonder if I would benefit from any of that.

5111 wrote:I have that same gun and can't help but wonder if I would benefit from any of that.

Not if it's already shooting/operating fine.

These are all brand new weapons...and have had no "break-in" as yet.

I detest needlessly burning up ammo....only to achieve the same thing I can do better at home with a little time and patience.

I absolutely will NOT take a new gun to the range and "see" if it will run. I simply fluff and buff them all (whether I think they will operate or not). My guns "run" when I take them to the range after doing the "at home break-in".

Some of what I do is for reliability, some of it is for sake of easy cleaning....but all of it has a purpose.

Unless you have an expensive custom made pistol....then there is always something that can be done to improve it.

I do understand.....not everyone is comfortable working on their own weapon, so for the those folks: Get out your wallet/purse, buy a bunch-O ammo...and head to the range. Don't be surprised if you have a few bobbles though.

Is there a particular reliability issue you are addressing by polishing the breech face?

Liberty wrote:Is there a particular reliability issue you are addressing by polishing the breech face?

Not unless it is "rough".

These days CNC machining (and sharp tooling) generally provides a square, flat, smooth surface. Much more so...than in the past.

I polish the Breech Face primarily to make "cleaning" easier, but I also like to check the firing pin bore for a sharp or raised edge while I am doing it. Same thing with polishing the muzzle and crown (just makes it easier to clean).

Lapping the slide to the frame and polishing the feed ramp do address reliability issues however. Careful inspection of the magazine(s) is a critical step as well.

One of the reasons I prefer a "stainless" weapon is because I can perform all these tasks (along with deburring) without the need to refinish anything.

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flintknapper wrote:

Liberty wrote:Is there a particular reliability issue you are addressing by polishing the breech face?

Not unless it is "rough".

These days CNC machining (and sharp tooling) generally provides a square, flat, smooth surface. Much more so...than in the past.

I polish the Breech Face primarily to make "cleaning" easier, but I also like to check the firing pin bore for a sharp or raised edge while I am doing it. Same thing with polishing the muzzle and crown (just makes it easier to clean).

Lapping the slide to the frame and polishing the feed ramp do address reliability issues however. Careful inspection of the magazine(s) is a critical step as well.

One of the reasons I prefer a "stainless" weapon is because I can perform all these tasks (along with deburring) without the need to refinish anything.

Thanks,
Its postings such as yours that I get to learn so much from.

5111 wrote:I have that same gun and can't help but wonder if I would benefit from any of that.

Are you having problems with your UCII?

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longtooth wrote:

flintknapper wrote:

longtooth wrote:Need any help.
Both my ladies have a Storm & they have let me shoot them some.

How do you like the pistol?

Anything I need to know about it?

They run good. Never a bobble from either & with any ammo. Not finiky about PD ammo either. 9mm for Wife & Mom both.
They break down easy for cleaning. The trigger is fine for anyone that is not accustomed to a really good one. Little long & heavy but smooth. Not gritty. Probably 10 LB.
The ambi decocker design is great. I dont remember the letters but Barbara likes hers set up to decock & then manually reset. Mom's is set up on the spring auto reset after decock. They decock easier than Mom.s sig. 232
The girls like the backstrap choices. Mom's hands are a lot bigger than Barbara's.
Double Action/Single action at the price. Excellent, reliable, for some a little large for conceal but very doable. Not even close to a 92.

Thanks Jerry!

AEA wrote:

5111 wrote:I have that same gun and can't help but wonder if I would benefit from any of that.

Are you having problems with your UCII?

Nope, no problems at all. I didn't realize that a fluff and buff was in place of breaking the gun in the old-fashioned way.

5111 wrote:

AEA wrote:

5111 wrote:I have that same gun and can't help but wonder if I would benefit from any of that.

I didn't realize that a fluff and buff was in place of breaking the gun in the old-fashioned way.

Only certain aspects of it...I.E. (Lapping slide to frame, polishing Feed ramp, Breech face, Magazines, etc).

Some of the "fluff" is simply for sake of aesthetics or to make cleaning easier.

I probably do more than is necessary, but thats just me.

I simply prefer to have the gun work as well as it can the first time I go the range with it. If there are problems after I have "cleaned it up" at home, then anymore "break-in" isn't going to fix it.

How many zillion accounts of people being disappointed with their new pistol have you read?

We see them all the time. Some guy gets his new X-Brand pistol and 100 rounds of ammo and off he goes to the range. Pistol is bone dry, has some rough tooling marks here and there, tolerances are pretty tight...and what do ya know...he has stoppage after stoppage. Comes home, voices his displeasure on all the forums he belongs to...and has no confidence in his new weapon.

Everyone from the manufacturer to the folks on the forums tell him it needs a "break-in" period. And they are right. So....think about what a BIP really is. Its simply all the moving parts of the weapon going through their normal motions (if it will) until the rough edges are gone and tolerances increase ever so slightly.

Well, why would anyone go through all the anguish of FTF's, FTE's, etc....when you can do the same BIP at home (only better and quicker) and not waste your time and ammo.

I am certainly aware that most of todays good quality weapons will prove reliable (in time) right out of the box. I am not saying that what I do....is in any way a necessity. Just sharing an almost sure fire way to have your pistol "run" and "run right" the first time out...and from then on too.

Don't do it if you don't have the tools, patience and knowhow....or you'll surely make a mess of something that warranty won't cover. But if you've been around guns for awhile and have tinkered with them...try the "at home break in" and see if you like it. Bet you will.

What is "lapping the slide to frame" and how is it done? What purpose does it serve? I just don't know what this means.

Lumberjack98 wrote:What is "lapping the slide to frame" and how is it done? What purpose does it serve? I just don't know what this means.

Good questions.

I sometimes assume folks are familiar with all the "terms" I use, of course.. that isn't true or reasonable.

"Lapping" the slide to the frame involves using a very fine abrasive (typically valve lapping compound or jewelers rouge) applying it to the mating surfaces of the slide and frame rails...and then working the two parts back and forth by hand (no recoil spring installed).

What this does is: Micro-polishes any surfaces that have contact with one another. It removes/smooths all the small rough areas and basically accomplishes (in a short time) what "shooting" the weapon is supposed to do during the so called "break-in" period.

It is easy to do, doesn't take a lot time (15 minutes tops), can be done at your leisure...and costs pennies per weapon. Yes, it is not as fun as "shooting" your weapon...but it quickly gets your weapon where it should have been (from the factory) without much effort or expense.

Caveat:
Clean your weapon VERY well afterward. You do not want any trace of abrasive left behind. The lapping procedure is a "one time" event to smooth the mating surfaces. For the rest of the life of your weapon...we are trying keep "abrasives" (dirt, sand, etc) out. Keep it clean and well lubed..and you should enjoy excellent reliability for many years.

You'll still want to "prove" your weapon by shooting it some amount. Shooting the weapon is necessary to put "stress" on the parts so we can see if they are going to fail or not. Bad parts are "bad parts" and no amount of "Lapping" will change that.

The process simply gives the weapon it's best chance at running right the first time you take it out. If you then experience problems, you can eliminate rough surfaces as the cause and look elsewhere.

Thanks for the explanation flintknapper!