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Skiprr wrote:

stevie_d_64 wrote:Good luck...If anything, be jealous of all these "neat freaks" and their carefully laid out and organized gunsafes! Geesh!!!

And did you notice in rm9792's safe that only one handgun hanger was empty? I'd wager that was his carry pistol that he had on his hip when he snapped the photo...

Ok, yer scarin' me...But that is a good observation!

[Steve looks over at his safe, shaking his head..."One more thing I have to git squared away..."]

That would be my Kimber Pro CDP, it was on my hip actually. I do get anal about organizing everything, just cant come up with a good plan for the safe. Tried by size, maker, finish, type, nothing really laid out well. I do keep all the 1911's on top. Safe is actually pretty messy when I took that pic.

rm9792 wrote:That would be my Kimber Pro CDP, it was on my hip actually.

stevie_d_64 wrote:Ok, yer scarin' me...But that is a good observation:

I rest my case.

Thanks for all the advice and sentiments guys. I really appreciate it. I went around this weekend to several shops looking at safes. I think I've found a good one at Cabelas, but I want to see if I can find it cheaper online. Also, For the shotgun, I'm going to go with a Remington 870 Tactical, and I'm going to get a Bushmaster AR-15 with a collapsible stock. I've already picked that one out. Beyond that, I'll just play it by ear. I hope to have most of those components within the next month. I have to wait on the insurance settlement before I can proceed.

Oh, and I am going to write the chief of police at Arlington and see why they would not take fingerprints.

Why a "dial" lock, not electronic? I would personally prefer a keypad to a dial... unless there's a compelling reason to go with the dial.

Codejockey,

I believe your NRA membership also includes $1000 in gun insurance. You should go to their website and/or give them a call to doublecheck. You are an NRA member, right?

My thoughts on the lock: a) electric keypads are faster and more convenient to open, altho somewhat more subject to failure than dial types, and b) dials are slower, reliable, but not absolutely fool-proof -- they need maintenance every five year or so, or they can eventually bind up and quit working properly.

Good luck.

ELB wrote:...I believe your NRA membership also includes $1000 in gun insurance. You should go to their website and/or give them a call to doublecheck. You are an NRA member, right?...

That is a good point. I am an NRA member in good standing. I'll definitely ask this question. Thanks for reminding me of that.

bburgi wrote:Why a "dial" lock, not electronic? I would personally prefer a keypad to a dial... unless there's a compelling reason to go with the dial.

The mylar "bubble" buttons, in my opinion tend to wear out easier over time, we had to change out the same style of button VAB's (variable action buttons) on our radar consoles in the Navy more times than I could remember...And sometimes they would get stuck on a function and cause a bit more attention to your plight than I cared for at that time...

The keypads on these safes are very similar to the stuff we used, therefore, I tend to lean towards the "old school" tumbler style locks...

I just don't see them wearing out as much...

And I would not consider my big gunsafe to be one of those quick action nightstand type safes for any reason...If I ever needed anything out of the gunsafe, I would have it out already...

Just my reasoning and opinion...FWIW...

With one of those big gun safe, do you still have to bolt it down? Or will the weight of the safe deter the thieves from taking it?

You still have to bolt it down, although there is a more important reason than theft.

I have a 7241 Fort Knox (72"H x 41"W). It is the Defender model, but I got the body upgrade to the same shell as their best safes, probably 1500#'s.

It has a fire door that is heavy enough that, swung open, can topple the safe forwards.

So unless you want it on top of someone, it needs to be anchored.

Besides, if the safe is near an outside wall, it would not be unheard of to back a wrecker through the wall, chain or strap the safe, and make off with it.