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Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:29 pm
by flintknapper
longtooth wrote:Yes sir flint, My thoughts on this have been patterned after the gunners on WWll Bombers. Shoot just in front of the attacking dog (fighter). Fill the path w/ lead then move to the nose of the attack. He will either run into it or break off the attack.
A really bad dog like you are talking about is another no win situation. Shoot him as he circles for a good attack angle & the owner says, you shot my dog, he did not hurt anyone. Wait until he starts the attack & have to hit a target moving at 45mph.No win.

Yup, wouldn't be fun or easy to do.

To maximize the chance of making multiple hits on a charging dog (distance, time, environment, and physical ability allowing) you could drop to one knee...putting yourself nearly on the same plane as the dog.

This would eliminate the need to "lead" the animal and you would only need to concern yourself with movement to the left or right (and maybe that of the bowels). :grin:

One thing is certain, you're not gonna outrun him!

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:36 pm
by longtooth
Not fair. You know I can't run. Bad knees. :lol:

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 7:52 pm
by flintknapper
longtooth wrote:Not fair. You know I can't run. Bad knees. :lol:
Maybe you'd get lucky and it would be an "old" dog (with bad knees and no teeth).

That way, the worst that could happen is: You might fall down and be severely "gummed" by the animal. :grin:

You know I'm a dog lover, so.....I hope I never have to hurt one.

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 8:33 pm
by bauerdj
longtooth wrote:
TraCoun wrote:
longtooth wrote: We have not yet figured a way to simulate the charge. That time factor definately has to be humbling.
Longtooth,
Just a thought for your evaluation, how about have a line of those targets, maybe 2 or 3 or so. The shooter has to engage the one farthest away first, then the next close, etc.?
Thanx,
TraCoun
Would suggest shooter should have to engage closest one first rather then farthest.

Dave B.

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:13 pm
by longtooth
flintknapper wrote:
longtooth wrote:Not fair. You know I can't run. Bad knees. :lol:
Maybe you'd get lucky and it would be an "old" dog (with bad knees and no teeth).

That way, the worst that could happen is: You might fall down and be severely "gummed" by the animal. :grin:

You know I'm a dog lover, so.....I hope I never have to hurt one.
That we know. Your signature says it all my friend.

Posted: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:40 pm
by Houston1944
I am pleased to say that I have never had to shoot a dog attacking me and hope I never do. I was on the ground a few years ago with a 300 lb wild hog and the first 357mag round just made her mad. You learn to shoot fast and accurate real quick in those situations. After that the 357 got downgraded to soft tissue critters only when loaded with HP.

I have seen some training films of dogs in actions and I don't think even in my prime I could have gotten a shot off if one was within 50 feet of me. They close the gap before you can blink.

Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 3:39 am
by KBCraig
My comments: first, stop thinking of a dog target as if it was a game animal. Any dog who is a target will not be broadside or quartered: it will be head on, and moving fast!

The vital zone of a head-on dog will be about 6" wide by 8" high, depending on breed, and will be closing at about 35 mph and accelerating.

Good luck with hitting that target when you're starting at anything less than 25 yards, gun already in hand!

This brings up one of the problems of "practical" scenarios: the best answer for the game, is seldom one that would survive the real world.

The "charging dog" scenario on the range can be dealt with in a variety of ways, but they all involve shooting a smallish moving target.

But... the scenario doesn't allow for the most practical and effective method for dealing with an aggressive, attacking dog: sacrifice your weak hand long enough to fill your strong hand and eliminate the threat. Let him gnaw! you're going to win in the end, so don't bother playing nice. If a biting dog wants your finger, give him a fist right down the throat. Don't pull back; shove forward, and hard!

Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 5:53 am
by flintknapper
Personally, I'm going to shoot before he arrives. If I miss...then he can have my weak arm, and we'll go from there. :grin:

I don't think of dogs as "game animals"... but IMO preferred shot placement remains the same.

I certainly agree that a committed spontaneous attack from a dog will likely result in the animal facing you and then coming to you like "he's on a string". That is the very reason I said "If the opportunity presents itself", shoot a broadside target. It may never happen.

It would be a difficult situation in which to keep your cool, no doubt about that. A rabid Chihuahua with a full head of steam has got to be a challenging target.

Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:55 am
by kw5kw
flintknapper wrote:
It would be a difficult situation in which to keep your cool, no doubt about that. A rabid Chihuahua with a full head of steam has got to be a challenging target.
No doubt... what a picture you just created... a rabid Taco Bell dog comming after me 'cause I bought my lunch from Taco Cabana.

Russ

Posted: Fri Sep 08, 2006 10:47 pm
by yerasimos
Kevin's comments are pretty similar to my thoughts on this subject. This is a problem that does not really favor a marksmanship solution, because an attacking dog may be moving too quickly for aimed gunfire. In fact, it is very possible you may be forced to fend off the dog while it is already biting you. What comes to mind is blasting away at the dog's torso with the barrel contacting the thrashing animal (slides on semi-automatics could be pushed out of battery here, revolvers may fare better) or stabbing/unzipping the dog's torso with a knife, all while the dog is mangling your support-side forearm.

Maybe I should pack a good bandage, along with the handgun, to tide me over until an ambulance arrives. I am serious about this. Think about how much time may elapse between the moment you get bitten/shot/stabbed and EMS' arrival, assuming a 911 call is made promptly, and how badly you could be bleeding.

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:16 am
by Witness P
not to take anybodys glory or ideas but attach your setup to a gas -powered RC car then it would be capable of approaching you at 50+ mph as well as be capable of changing direction quickly and stopping it's probably about as realistic as you can get. If your worried about the sound of an gas rc car you could also use an electric in many cases they are just as fast as gas now but silent.

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 8:20 am
by longtooth
Outdoor range here. We have several large training bays that are empty & open. Bring your own target stands & set your own training scenerio. Will work there.

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:56 am
by flintknapper
yerasimos wrote:Kevin's comments are pretty similar to my thoughts on this subject. This is a problem that does not really favor a marksmanship solution, because an attacking dog may be moving too quickly for aimed gunfire. In fact, it is very possible you may be forced to fend off the dog while it is already biting you. What comes to mind is blasting away at the dog's torso with the barrel contacting the thrashing animal (slides on semi-automatics could be pushed out of battery here, revolvers may fare better) or stabbing/unzipping the dog's torso with a knife, all while the dog is mangling your support-side forearm.

Maybe I should pack a good bandage, along with the handgun, to tide me over until an ambulance arrives. I am serious about this. Think about how much time may elapse between the moment you get bitten/shot/stabbed and EMS' arrival, assuming a 911 call is made promptly, and how badly you could be bleeding.


Those are certainly all valid points. A dog attack could occur so suddenly...and from such a short distance that even drawing your weapon might not be viable.

FWIW, I will share what a full time trainer of police dogs suggested to me when we discussed this very same problem. This fellow was a former training partner of mine, going to school here to get his degree in Criminal Justice. A very bright lad for a Canadian. (sorry Jeremy)

He grew up training dogs along with his father, and impressed me with his knowledge. He had a big "Belgian bred" Shepard that he had trained...and I'll just say this: I wouldn't want that thing on me!

Jeremy, was quick to point out that an attack from an untrained animal would be very different from that of trained dog, but here is what he demonstrated and suggested: IF ATTACKED (or about to be).....

1. Do not run, unless doing so will allow certain escape (into a vehicle, building, etc). It will only serve to trigger the "chase mechanism" in the animal.

2. "Offer" the weak side arm. He said while this is a difficult thing to do, it is still the best strategy. It is counterintuitive to "give" an animal trying to bite you a target, our reflex is to pull our limbs inward. But, here is the crucial information he shared: Make a fist, turn you hand upward (like you were holding a stake to be driven in the ground), bend your arm at the elbow 90 deg. and hold it out in front of your body. This position minimizes the chance of the animal getting your hand and crushing the small bones and nerves. It lessens the chance that the animal will grab you above the elbow where the Brachial artery and nerve reside (potentially fatal wound). The "stake in the ground" hand position may result in the animal grabbing you by the bones (radial and ulna) of the forearm and not the muscle, nerves and veins on the underside of the arm.

3. Do not pull away (again counterintuitive)! This will only cause more damage. Also, make no movements toward the animals head, he will see this and most likely "take" that target. (trained or untrained)

4. Control the dogs movement. Serious damage can occur from the crushing effect of the bite from a large powerful dog, but most damage will result from the "tearing/shaking/pulling" that the animal does.
Jeremy's solution to this was to get the dog down and straddle him (no I'm not kidding). He would reach under the dog (big Shepard mind you), and grab either the offside front or rear leg (rear preferred), with a "push-pull" he would "dump" the dog on its side and immediately straddle it. You could tell this was most disconcerting to the dog. It is in this position that you "do your work".

We discussed many other things, but...this has already gotten lengthy (sorry). Jeremy wanted to make sure that I understood that an attack by an untrained dog could be ANYTHING, it might break off quickly or not, the attack might involve only your legs, etc....

This is what he said to protect, and I agree: (In order of importance)

1. Neck and throat....at any cost.

2. Groin area and inner leg above the knee.

3. Inside of upper arm.

I will not go into what his suggestions were to disable a dog with either gun or knife. I do not think it appropriate for general discussion.


Again, sorry for the length of the post.

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:12 am
by KBCraig
Your friend Jeremy's suggestions are exactly the same as what I have always planned for, except for one thing: when flipping the dog, I'd come down with my full weight on his torso, not just straddling him.

I actually used to train at this. We had a spitz who loved to play "attack dog" (yes, it was playing, not vicious, and he only did it with me). He'd jump and go for my arm (held just as described above), latch onto my coat, and I'd flip him onto his back. Repeat ad nauseum, to the exhaustion of one spitz and one 13 year old boy.

Kevin

Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:56 am
by bauerdj
kw5kw wrote:
flintknapper wrote:
It would be a difficult situation in which to keep your cool, no doubt about that. A rabid Chihuahua with a full head of steam has got to be a challenging target.
No doubt... what a picture you just created... a rabid Taco Bell dog comming after me 'cause I bought my lunch from Taco Cabana.

Russ
You may survive the dog, the taco cabana meal may be the greater threat!

Dave B.