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Sidro wrote:AustinRealtor have you read the article Andy referred to on gunblast.com? It may answer some of your questions. Also the STI Spartan is made in the Phillipines and not here, STI GPS-6 is made in Slovakia. The Ruger SR1911 should be all american make from what I can find.

What Andy said about Caspian frames is correct. They are by Pine Tree Casting which is owned by Ruger and I believe that for a while that Wilson frames were also done by PTC.

It should be an excellent firearm and just cannot wait for it to get here.

Sidro, yes I knew about STI Spartan (foreign parts, but assembled about 15 miles from my house in Georgetown, TX - so at least they got it half right). And I did read the gunblast article (I really like that guy). But I'm still enough of a 1911 novice that I often miss a lot of the finer points about specific parts for comparison sake. I know from reading and handling a lot of 1911s at guns shops etc., that getting a gun set up just right for your particular hand etc is crucial. I've long thought I'd just buy a Springfield MilSpec or GI model until I held one and didn't like it at all (too blocky, hard cut corners, and lack of the exaggerated beaver tail). So I guess I'm not the 1911 purist I thought I was - I like a lot of the modern upgrades. But also don't want/need/can't afford - a top end all-American STI.

All that said, I think this will likely come down to reading some first-hand reviews (eagerly awaiting yours, Sir Guinea Pig ), finding out a bit more about MIM parts etc. (which I doubt I can reasonably avoid in a sub $800 gun), and finally holding the gun in my own hands.

(NOTE: this gets a bit off topic, so might end up moving this last part elsewhere - but since y'all are so graciously helping me in this thread ... )

I guess from my limited knowledge these are the specific parts that would seem to be determinitive of how well a 1911 fits a particular user

• Extended beavertail - must have
• grip safety - same part as the beavertail, I realize, but talking specifically about shape of the bottom portion on back of grip that fits into palm of hand ... flat or different shapes with slight hump at bottom (McCormick style vs. Wilson style - or something like that). Seems I prefer the style that is a more subtle curve instead of the pronounced hard-edged hump - if that makes any sense
• mainspring housing - still a bit unsure on this one, material (plastic, aluminum, steel) and shape (straight, curved, exaggerated curve).
• thumb safety - definitely extended - ambi? not as critical, but still like the idea if it comes with it or is an easy swap
• slide release - unsure of different choices here - regular, extended, and super long (or something like that?)
• hammer - unclear on all the different choices and reasons why
• trigger - short or long? plastic, aluminum, steel? solid or skeletonized?
• front strap of grip - plain or somehow enhanced texture (seems to be something you want on the gun when you buy it - otherwise expensive gunsmith job?)
• forward cocking serrations (I like these on my S&W M&P45, but don't know that they're mandatory)
• Tac Light picatinny rail (really not sure on this one - like the ability to mount one if I need it, but don't like the looks ... at this point probably avoid it on my first 1911).
• overall surface material - greatly prefer stainless or nickle plated or some advanced coating/rust proofing - my first pistol years ago was a Colt Mustang and I carried it daily and hated the way that blued gun rusted - one of the big reasons I replaced it with a Glock instead of a Colt Defender
• Barrel - traditional bushing barrel or newer bull barrel (seems to be big choice in various STI configurations). I do like to shoot IDPA, so until they decide that yes many folks DO CARRY bull barrel 1911s and its OK to allow them in CDP class, I guess I'd go with bushing barrel for now.
• size/weight - for my first gun, I'm about 90% sure I want a full-size steel-frame 5-inch barrel 1911 with full 7-round (or is it 8-round?) grip length.

Now just have to figure out in my novice mind where the SR1911 stacks up in all of those categories compared to STI, Springfield etc (and I guess Kimber and Colt are still possibilities too if I can find a good used one).

AndyC wrote:$575? Wow

Those who know my buying habits will know already where this sub-$575 quoted price comes from, but for the rest ...

you should become a fan/friend of GT Distributors on Facebook. They posted about SR1911 a few days ago and this was their response to a question about anticipated actual price in store ...

GT Distributors ‎$569.95
April 18 at 1:32pm

and this ...

GT Distributors Call 800-775-5996 to order for pickup at whichever GT you are near or for shipment to your agency or FFL holder.
April 18 at 2:27pm

http://www.gtdist.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As always, I don't work there nor do I have any affiliation with the company beyond being a very satisfied customer.

And yes, they do sell Ruger brand to us "regular guys" ... only Glock, Springfield, and Sig are designated for sales to LEO only (and they can and will sell new Glocks at "regular" prices to non-LEO + any used gun is fair game for sale to non-LEO)

One more question related to SR1911 .... someone explain "Series 70" design vs. "Series 80" or "Series 90" etc.

I know that Series 70 is closest to original JMB design, with no firing pin safety. And others introduced firing pin safety.

But what other reasons are there to prefer a Series 70 design? And how dangerous is a Series 70 gun in terms of discharging a round if dropped? Or am I completely misunderstanding the firing pin safety of the later models?

And what are others using ... STI? Springfield? Kimber? etc (I know Colt designated S70 or S80 or S90) but what design do most other top 1911 makers utilize?

Interested in hearing the first range report..... I've always been a fan of Ruger and the level of customer service that they provide. This will very likely be my first 1911 when it is finally released to distributors...

Andy, as always sir

AndyC wrote:Range report from Gunblast

Cool - no FP safety or key lock, no full-length guide-rod, genuine Novak sights, $799 MSRP, totally made in the USA from scratch - looking good so far

Yep, that's why I want one as well. That's one thing that has been holding me back from getting a 1911, everyone (except RIA) uses the FP safety complication garbage when a simple light firing pin with a heavier spring accomplishes the same thing with no added points of failure. I'm looking forward to seeing these hit the market.

NcongruNt wrote:

AndyC wrote:Range report from Gunblast

Cool - no FP safety or key lock, no full-length guide-rod, genuine Novak sights, $799 MSRP, totally made in the USA from scratch - looking good so far

Yep, that's why I want one as well. That's one thing that has been holding me back from getting a 1911, everyone (except RIA) uses the FP safety complication garbage when a simple light firing pin with a heavier spring accomplishes the same thing with no added points of failure. I'm looking forward to seeing these hit the market.

Does it really accomplish the same thing? I'm not doubting the physics of reduced inertia, but it seems like an actual FP block would be more reliable in preventing the FP from moving forward. (I'm really asking... I like Ruger, but no FP safety makes me a little nervous.)

Dave2 wrote:

NcongruNt wrote:

AndyC wrote:Range report from Gunblast

Cool - no FP safety or key lock, no full-length guide-rod, genuine Novak sights, $799 MSRP, totally made in the USA from scratch - looking good so far

Yep, that's why I want one as well. That's one thing that has been holding me back from getting a 1911, everyone (except RIA) uses the FP safety complication garbage when a simple light firing pin with a heavier spring accomplishes the same thing with no added points of failure. I'm looking forward to seeing these hit the market.

Does it really accomplish the same thing? I'm not doubting the physics of reduced inertia, but it seems like an actual FP block would be more reliable in preventing the FP from moving forward. (I'm really asking... I like Ruger, but no FP safety makes me a little nervous.)

With a light firing pin (titanium is used in the Ruger) and sufficient spring strength, there is no practical height where an AD due to a drop would be a concern.

Personally, the firing pin safety makes me nervous. Firstly, it's a tacked-on mechanism to the 1911 design. Secondly, I've read too may reports on these forums whose FPS bricked their 1911. I recall one (I believe it was a Sig) that was incapacitated due to the rear sight becoming dislodged. Apparently, on that design, the rear sight retains the FPS mechanism. I don't know about you, but I can envision a fight for my life where my rear sight gets knocked off. I personally don't want a gun that is susceptible to catastrophic failure because of a sight problem.

I have been thinking about getting a 1911 myself and this just may be the gun that makes me take the plunge. I love all my Rugers and my P89 has been nothing but reliable with everything it has ever been fed. I hope they come out with a 4" model as I am not a fan of the full size 1911's.

Michael Bane has a video here: http://www.downrange.tv/blog/the-ruger- ... ideo/9290/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

In the video, Bane speculates that Ruger will be adding more 1911 types to their offerings--like Commander and Officer sizes.

austinrealtor wrote:Being a 1911 novice I'm wondering how this gun (specs & components) compares to others from Springfield, Kimber, STI, Colt or others. Does it have equivalent bells & whistles compared to an STI Spartan? Trojan? Springfield GI? Loaded ? Any Kimber or Colt? What about Rock Island/Armscor offerings?

The entry level models like STI Spartan, Trojan, Armsor, low end Kimbers, and now the Ruger are cast frames, whereas the Springfield Armory is a forged frame.