TexasCHLforum.com

AndyC wrote:Happy man - I did better with iron-sights on the rifles than I ever have. Now I need coffee :)

It sounds like you had a very happy and productive day!

I did a little work on my Colt yesterday, finished up this morning and have all these parts left over

good job. John Browning would approve :-)

I took a lot of flack for it on another forum - they were all

I can imagine.

The irony of it is...if you had asked them if they'd be O.K. with you buying/owning a traditional 70 series, the answer would have been a unanimous 'yes'.

But somehow... its NOT O.K. to convert an 80 to be a 70.



Really wild how some folks 'know' whats better for you, than you do.

The only valid argument I could see being made, would be a person 'tinkering' with a weapon IF they don't know what they are doing, but you are clearly qualified and experienced.

Good job on that pistol, you did it right.

I have 4 that all have been converted by removal of those parts, I may be mistaken on this but I have never seen a really top maker include these parts on their models, my Wilsons, Swenson, STI & SV do not have them.

Lena wrote:I have 4 that all have been converted by removal of those parts, I may be mistaken on this but I have never seen a really top maker include these parts on their models, my Wilsons, Swenson, STI & SV do not have them.

Never had any problems with the 'levers' on mine, but had the firing pin 'plunger' drop down from the slide and jam the pistol.

Thank goodness I was just shooting on my range. Took a minute to realize what had happened. My reflex was to tap and rack, but of course that didn't clear it. Turned the pistol over and the plunger was jammed against the rear of the frame...preventing the slide from going into battery.

I pulled on the plunger and it and the spring both fell out. Upon dis-assembly I discovered the plunger hole in the slide had worn oversize and the lip on the extractor that holds it in place was also worn. So yes, more frequent inspection would have prevented this, but it is something a lot of folks would easily overlook.

Anyway, I got ALL of those FPB parts out of there post haste.

The only other part if used for carry to swap out is the trigger if it has an over travel screw or secure it very well due to if it turns the trigger will not go back far enough, on my carry 1911 my trigger is welded and fitted for over travel with no screw. Match guns are fine with it.

Most over travel problems happen when it is set very close to zero.

Never had any problems with the 'levers' on mine, but had the firing pin 'plunger' drop down from the slide and jam the pistol

I've had the 'arm' break off of the plunger lever in a ParaOrdnance; locked the pistol up good. Luckily it was at the range and
wasn't a carry gun.

I replaced the entire set of Series 80 parts with aftermarket:
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php ... ref=CS0003

ghostrider wrote:

Never had any problems with the 'levers' on mine, but had the firing pin 'plunger' drop down from the slide and jam the pistol

I've had the 'arm' break off of the plunger lever in a ParaOrdnance; locked the pistol up good. Luckily it was at the range and
wasn't a carry gun.

I replaced the entire set of Series 80 parts with aftermarket:
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index.php ... ref=CS0003

The plunger I mentioned above was a Para P-13.

Ditched the Firing Pin Block parts and installed a Wilson Bulletproof extractor at the same time. Nary a problem since then.

Ditched the Firing Pin Block parts and installed a Wilson Bulletproof extractor at the same time.

if I have a problem again, that's what I'll do. Big fan of Wilson Combat parts; the bulletproof ones in particular.