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Great gun, and should look really sharp with the new add ons.
Just wondering, why would you prefer plated rather than solid stainless?

RossA wrote:Great gun, and should look really sharp with the new add ons.
Just wondering, why would you prefer plated rather than solid stainless?

To be honest, I don't really have a preference and I'm not aware of the pros and cons.

Are the Wilson Combat ones just plated or solid? Is that the difference between their regular and bullet proof versions?

AndyC wrote:

mupepe wrote:

AndyC wrote:

mupepe wrote:I wanted to replace the mainspring housing cover, grip safety, thumb safety, mag release, recoil spring bushing and slide stop with either chrome or nickel plated parts. Can anyone point me in the direction of where I can get drop in parts for an Officer frame?

Grip safety and thumb-safety won't be drop-in - those need to be fitted by hand.

From what I've seen on youtube it's just a bit of filing. Is that right?

Well, like the Mona Lisa is just a bit of paint ;)

The mere fact that you're asking means I wouldn't recommend you try it yourself. Sure there's a first time for everyone but put it this way - it literally only takes a few extra file-strokes on a thumb-safety to ruin it and render it absolutely unsafe.

Remember also, if you file on some parts, like the grip safety, you are going to destroy that plated finish you want. Then you'll have to pay someone to strip the old finish off and re-plate it again. Anything less will look like exactly what it is... a "Bubba" job.

I think for a first time project, you need to consider honing not filing.

AndyC wrote:

mupepe wrote:

AndyC wrote:

mupepe wrote:I wanted to replace the mainspring housing cover, grip safety, thumb safety, mag release, recoil spring bushing and slide stop with either chrome or nickel plated parts. Can anyone point me in the direction of where I can get drop in parts for an Officer frame?

Grip safety and thumb-safety won't be drop-in - those need to be fitted by hand.

From what I've seen on youtube it's just a bit of filing. Is that right?

Well, like the Mona Lisa is just a bit of paint ;)

The mere fact that you're asking means I wouldn't recommend you try it yourself. Sure there's a first time for everyone but put it this way - it literally only takes a few extra file-strokes on a thumb-safety to ruin it and render it absolutely unsafe.

I'm honestly not worried. I'm not dumb enough to use a grip safety that has been made unreliable. I'd rather give it a shot and possibly ruin one just to learn. It won't be the first time I've filed and fit metal parts, just the first time for these particular items. I'll definitely be doing a lot more research anyways before I take action. If I come the conclusion I'm out of my element I'll take it to a professional.

WTR wrote:I think for a first time project, you need to consider honing not filing.

Thank you very much for the tip. Any recommendations for a honing stone for this project? Ill read up.

Pawpaw wrote:

Remember also, if you file on some parts, like the grip safety, you are going to destroy that plated finish you want. Then you'll have to pay someone to strip the old finish off and re-plate it again. Anything less will look like exactly what it is... a "Bubba" job.

The part being reduced and fitted isn't visible though, right?

WTR wrote:I think for a first time project, you need to consider honing not filing.

I haven't bought any in years. You might start with Brownells.

mupepe wrote:

Pawpaw wrote:

Remember also, if you file on some parts, like the grip safety, you are going to destroy that plated finish you want. Then you'll have to pay someone to strip the old finish off and re-plate it again. Anything less will look like exactly what it is... a "Bubba" job.

The part being reduced and fitted isn't visible though, right?

On the grip safety in particular, yes it will show. That's why I mentioned it.

Consider using stainless steel parts.

You won't have the refinishing issue, and you can polish them to a high shine when you get them the way you want them to look a lot like chrome or nickel but without the rust through "speckling" problem that often appears on these parts that are exposed to sweat.

AndyC wrote:

mupepe wrote:I'm honestly not worried. I'm not dumb enough to use a grip safety that has been made unreliable. I'd rather give it a shot and possibly ruin one just to learn. It won't be the first time I've filed and fit metal parts, just the first time for these particular items. I'll definitely be doing a lot more research anyways before I take action. If I come the conclusion I'm out of my element I'll take it to a professional.

Then cool. They're not hard to install if you understand how they fit and go slow. I'm just giving you a heads-up because they're definitely not drop-in parts on a 1911 and can appear to work but actually render the pistol unsafe.

Have a gander at the pics here: http://www.texaschlforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=84106

Thank you very much!

Pawpaw wrote:

mupepe wrote:

Pawpaw wrote:

Remember also, if you file on some parts, like the grip safety, you are going to destroy that plated finish you want. Then you'll have to pay someone to strip the old finish off and re-plate it again. Anything less will look like exactly what it is... a "Bubba" job.

The part being reduced and fitted isn't visible though, right?

On the grip safety in particular, yes it will show. That's why I mentioned it.

Excaliber wrote:Consider using stainless steel parts.

You won't have the refinishing issue, and you can polish them to a high shine when you get them the way you want them to look a lot like chrome or nickel but without the rust through "speckling" problem that often appears on these parts that are exposed to sweat.

Thank you both. Then I'll do the stainless steel parts to avoid the finishing issue.

I appreciate all the expertise and experience on this forum.

I personally think the gun looks great the way it is. If you didn't like the way it looked before hand without The stainless parts why buy it? I understand buying a gun you wanted for a long time but I don't think I could just settle on something knowing I'm going to have to spend more money to get what I want and risk the possibility of ruining parts. Although if you don't mind which it doesn't seem like you do then go for it! Or take to a professional which is what I'd do but then again everybody has opinions. It just worries me a little! That is a beautiful gun! I love those little colts and I think it's another gun added to the must have list!

It's a looker! I really like the all black look...

Both my officer's framed guns are two tones, but both came that way from the factory. I only replace with SS parts so I don't have to worry about refinishing after fitting. When I get them just right, they will go to Robar for complete NP3/Rogaurd treatment, inside and out.

cmgee67 wrote:I personally think the gun looks great the way it is. If you didn't like the way it looked before hand without The stainless parts why buy it? I understand buying a gun you wanted for a long time but I don't think I could just settle on something knowing I'm going to have to spend more money to get what I want and risk the possibility of ruining parts. Although if you don't mind which it doesn't seem like you do then go for it! Or take to a professional which is what I'd do but then again everybody has opinions. It just worries me a little! That is a beautiful gun! I love those little colts and I think it's another gun added to the must have list!

Thanks! It's not that I don't think it's beautiful, but I just like customizing things I own. There's always little parts I want to update, just like my vehicles or my house. I'm a tinkerer too. If it looks like something I can learn to do on my own I'm okay with possibly spending a bit more on a mistake to learn. If it involved altering the frame then it would be a different story!

flechero wrote:It's a looker! I really like the all black look...

Both my officer's framed guns are two tones, but both came that way from the factory. I only replace with SS parts so I don't have to worry about refinishing after fitting. When I get them just right, they will go to Robar for complete NP3/Rogaurd treatment, inside and out.

That's something else that was recommended to me - getting the stock parts finished by Robar. But I'd like to be able to put it back to stock if possible. I'm weird that way.