Ultrasonic cleaners for gun parts

[Bitter Clinger]

Bitter Clinger ,

I like your idea, but some of my guns (Glock/Browning Buckmark/) begin to have ejection problems after say 2/3 hundred rounds that cleaning cures. The burned powder residue hampers the action in these pistols. To be sure, so far my AR's can be shot without cleaning very often and perform flawlessly.

Do you recommend any solvent/cleaner type solution you squirt into moving parts and then lube without disassembly and cleaning that keeps your guns performing?

Much like Carlson 1, I take no pleasure in gun cleaning. It's simply another chore I'd like to limit if possible without suffering poor performance.

I have run as much as 3-5000 rounds through my Springfield XDm's without anything more than lubing of the slide (say using Rem oil) before each outing. Again, if you are running reloads, then you may see considerably greater contamination. I ONLY run clean, factory new ammo.

I do use a pretty heavy duty spray cleaner when I do finally field strip (and never go beyond field stripping) such as Birchwood Casey "Gun Scrubber" and over time I have come to favor Safariland Break Free "CLP" for detailed final cleaning and re-assembly. These are simply my personal preferences with no hard data to back up my selections other than I can tell you that as long as I keep the guns lubed, they seem to run virtually forever. Hope this helps...

P.S. I do agree with you and Carlson. Only worse chore IMHO is bleeding brakes

[rotor]

I bought one of the small Harbor Freight units to clean brass. It appears to be the same as the small Lyman but with a different basket. I was not very happy with it. Apparently it can harm aluminum parts too. Even worse when I turned it on my dog ran and hid under my bed and wouldn't come out. So, my wife won't let me turn it on again. I am not that compulsive with my brass. Have a Cabella corn cob cleaner that works great and I have a rotary tumbler with SS pins if I want perfection ( which I don't). I am not very compulsive about cleaning my guns. They really don't need very much.

[E.Marquez]

I bought one of the small Harbor Freight ...
-I was not very happy with it.

Sounds like the same think a lifelong STI and Kimber owner would say after buying a Hi Point.

Apparently it can harm aluminum parts too.

As can a hammer when used improperly to remove a roll pin or a bore brush used incorrectly or a citrus based cleaner left in contact with that same aluminum part.

Or all four things (sonic tank, hammer, bore brush, citrus based cleaner) can be used correctly and safely with those same Aluminum parts, and every other part of the gun.

The Sonic tank is just a tool (as most of us argue to anti gunners about a firearm coincidentally) you simply have to know how to use the tool, its limitations and correct associated components.

I cleaned a dozen aluminium parts today in my sonic tank with no detrimental effects. Known alumunium types (6061 & 7075 unknown AL type (what ever they cast mikuni carbs out of), plain and anodized. No issues at all.... I clean Titanium, magnesium, brass, all manner of ferrous steels. Its not rocket science, but it is something that has some cautions and requirements for. Very thin metal (think aluminum foil) of any type, but softer stuff mostly is to be cleaned with caution.. Soap type and reaction to item being cleaned is a consideration as well. And of course post cleaning flush and lubrication as well.

I dont claim to be an expert in Sonic tank tech.... Just a user for the last dozen years or so...from the $30 Harbor Freight version to my current Mid ~high end tank.........

[Rex B]

I use the HF cleaners, with Lyman concentrate cleaner. That is followed by a plain water rinse, then compressed air to chase most of the water out. Then into the 2nd cleaner with Lyman Turbo Lube. Works great for chasing out the fine grit that accumulates deep in the action. You will be amazed at what comes out.
That said, it's a once or twice a year thing. It does nothing for lead or copper buildup in the bore.
There is still a place for other methods, such as a vibratory cleaner for carbon buildup on your BCG. Horses for courses.

[JustSomeOldGuy]

I have seen the following used by some of the local competition shooters;
- aerosol driven disk brake cleaner from the autoparts store
BUT
- only used on stainless or non-blued assemblys
- all wooden and plastic/polymer parts removed prior to treatment
- after air drying, LIBERALLY lube the assembly with your favorite product (see, 'liberalism' isn't ALWAYS bad) for lubrication/preservation

I've used the stuff with a toothbrush to get burn marks off of stainless revolver cylinder faces; otherwise I avoid it because
- I can't stand the smell
- the stuff is extremely damaging to painted or finished surfaces - I've literally melted some screwdriver handles with the stuff and marred some tabletops.....

[rotor]

I bought one of the small Harbor Freight ...
-I was not very happy with it.

Sounds like the same think a lifelong STI and Kimber owner would say after buying a Hi Point.

Apparently it can harm aluminum parts too.

As can a hammer when used improperly to remove a roll pin or a bore brush used incorrectly or a citrus based cleaner left in contact with that same aluminum part.

Or all four things (sonic tank, hammer, bore brush, citrus based cleaner) can be used correctly and safely with those same Aluminum parts, and every other part of the gun.

The Sonic tank is just a tool (as most of us argue to anti gunners about a firearm coincidentally) you simply have to know how to use the tool, its limitations and correct associated components.

I cleaned a dozen aluminium parts today in my sonic tank with no detrimental effects. Known alumunium types (6061 & 7075 unknown AL type (what ever they cast mikuni carbs out of), plain and anodized. No issues at all.... I clean Titanium, magnesium, brass, all manner of ferrous steels. Its not rocket science, but it is something that has some cautions and requirements for. Very thin metal (think aluminum foil) of any type, but softer stuff mostly is to be cleaned with caution.. Soap type and reaction to item being cleaned is a consideration as well. And of course post cleaning flush and lubrication as well.

I dont claim to be an expert in Sonic tank tech.... Just a user for the last dozen years or so...from the $30 Harbor Freight version to my current Mid ~high end tank.........

I believe mine was the $60 or $70 unit. Dog still hates it. You may be right but I still would be cautious with aluminum. For Lyman Turbo Sonic Concentrated Steel & Gun parts solution the following warning is listed "Can be used to clean steel, stainless steel and anodized aluminum gun parts. Do not use on non-anodized (bare) aluminum or other non-ferrous metals." For Lyman Turbo Sonic Cartridge Case cleaning solution they say "Can be used to clean brass, copper, bronze and stainless steel. Not recommended for use on aluminum or steel."
So, I guess you need to be careful with different solutions. I do not claim to be a sonic cleaner expert but I can read labels.
I do know guns though and would be glad to match my collection of quality to yours.