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I have been looking at a Sig 232 stainless 380 for my wife. We used to own one many years ago but had to part with it. I have been looking at all of the Houston area gun shows and they never have a stainless one. I found one this morning at a local store. It is brand new, has never been shot, but has been sitting in a gun display case for some time. It is quite dusty (that doesn't bother me) but it has quite a few scratches on the slide. I have searched this site and hear of polishing stainless with a Dremel polishing wheel and Flitz? The guy at the store has a price tag of 650 but will take 500 for it.  Should I worry about the scratches, none are deep and can't be felt when I rub my finger over them. Any suggestions? What is Flitz anyway and where can I get some? Should I use a variable speed Dremel or take it to a gunsmith? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

**EDIT** the following comments apply generally to polishing stainless steel and not specifically to gun slides.

scratches will probably require something more abrasive than just a polishing compound. like 1000grit sandpaper or maybe start with 2000 grit and see if that does it, if not then go to 1000 and if that's not working then try 600. Then you can go back up through 2000 grit and then hit it with some polishing compound by hand and polish it pretty easily. You won't need the Dremel... really a dremel polishing wheel is so tiny it'd take forever and be tough to get consistent results. I'd just use a rag and elbow grease.

Flitz is a metal polish paste. I think I've seen it at Target. Cosmetic scratches on stainless steel firearms don't bother me. I think they give a gun character but if you like a mirror finish it might be worth trying Flitz.

Scratches give character, but to answer your question...I have heard of people using flitz to polish stainless. I personally have not but see no reaon why it would not work especially if the scratches can not be felt.

What I have done is polish a stainless bolt with progressively finer grades of wet or dry sandpaper starting with about 600 grit and working up to 1000 grit or even 1200 grit. Worked for me and it is possible to get to a "mirror" finish depending on how patient you are and how fine the paper is.


Ooops! What Mr. 72 said.

Do not use a Dremel! You will get waves in the finsh that will be noticeable, dont ask how I know....

rm9792 wrote:Do not use a Dremel! You will get waves in the finsh that will be noticeable, dont ask how I know....

Yup,

Dremel is great for polishing small areas, but the entire side of a 1911 will require a buffing wheel and someone that knows what they are doing.

Acceptable results can be had using fine wet/dry sandpaper if you are careful.

Drop the Dremmel and step back from the work bench! I have had good results with wet/dry sandpaper, using 400, 1,000 and 2,000 grit paper to remove scratches. Flitz works great as a final polish but not to remove scratches.

Mr. Napper,
You posted before a suggested "break in" method... jewlers rouge on the slide, dremmel on the ramp, etc. Excelent suggestion. I have never had a FTF with my Kimber UC II since following your instructions. Thank you. Worked well with my aluminum slide as well.

Commander Cody wrote:Mr. Napper,
You posted before a suggested "break in" method... jewlers rouge on the slide, dremmel on the ramp, etc. Excelent suggestion. I have never had a FTF with my Kimber CU II since following your instructions. Thank you. Worked well with my aluminum slide as well.

I keep telling folks, but most insist on going straight to the range with their new weapon anyway.

Glad you decided to give it a try. My results have been just like yours, never a problem.