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I have a buddy who has an older spanish issue 1911. It's a decent weapon and fairly reliable but if you look at it and say "water" too loudly it starts to rust. I use a silicone cloth that solves most of my issues with rust, but I don't know what to recommend for him. You can't get that cloth to cover all of the parts in question.

We're considering getting dura-coat and trying that out, but in the meantime we kinda need another option. Some kind of spray would be ideal so he can get good coverage, but I can't seem to find a silicone like spray out there. Ideas? He would need something suitable and convenient for coating internal parts as well.

Jedi - you are a geek. And I got the reference.

Is this a cased gun? What about adding some desiccant to the safe or case? Just some light oiling should work if you also have the desiccant or dehumidifier.

hehe :)

this forum would run in terror from a rust monster :) and with darn good reason.


It's a daily carry and he doesn't have a decent holster at the moment so it's usually up against his skin in ghetto style carry. (yeah yeah... i've lectured him on getting a decent holster. I'm probably gonna break down and buy one for him as a birthday present or something.)

They've had job issues over the past few months so $$ is tight and will be for a few more weeks at least so dura coat is out atm.

Wow...this is probably the last place I thought I would see a D&D joke.

1. Strip the pistol down to its component level
2. Sandblast w/ 80 grit aluminum oxide
3. Drop in a bucket of Parkerizing solution
4. Grease and go shooting!

If you can boil easter eggs you can re-parkerize a firearm!

http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu38.htm <- Refinishing a Sistema .45 ACP - Part 1
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu39.htm <- Refinishing a Sistema .45 ACP - Part 2

If you can go from this


To this


They used duracoat...Parkerizing is easier

I need to do some research on parkerizing and blueing. I understand they're coatings for weapons but I don't really understand how they work and exactly what they do other than "protect" the weapon...

I'd skip ahead in my gunsmithing course but i dont have access to that unit yet... darn!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerize


Example of a parkerized 1911

I redid an Ishapore Enfield with the Manganese phosphating procedure

http://www.texasshooting.com/TexasCHL_F ... 87&t=14762

Incredibly simple..the hardest part was sand blasting it and then degreasing it properly, the biggest obsticle was finding a stainless steel pan long enough to drop the metal of the rifle barrel and receiver in.

I even have the links for you to get the solution

The secret of parkerizing isn't the finish..its in what the finish does...its INCREDIBLY porous..the very 1st thing you do once you remove the piece from the solution is rinse with hot water, the heat will evaporate the water, once the water is gone you slather it in oil, I used CLP and it drank it up...that is why alot of the old Garands in cosmoline have a greenish hue..the parkerizing has soaked up the grease and after 40 years in a warehouse somewhere the grease has changed its chemical composition, but oil/grease is the key to parkerizings protection.

Oh and also parkerizing is the absolute BEST primer for moly based spraypaint coatings like duracoat, as I said..it will literally absorb the paint and bond it with the metal and parkerizing.

Good luck..but the old school in me LOVES the basic dark grey/black pakerizing finish

I still got 3/4 of a gallon of parkerizing solution left and 1/2 a bag of sandblasting media (care for a trip to Baytown??)

Have you tried using EEZOX? Seems to keep the rust off my no-finish Colt Sistema but it's not a carry gun.

On-the-cheap?
I would clean and wax everything you can. Regular car wax is fine, I would use some that doesn't have any polish/abrasive in it. Soak the rest in automatic transmission fluid then wipe off all you can. It's a decent lube and protects against rust.
He will probably need to repeat this pretty regularly but a can of carnuba wax and a quart of ATF will go a long time.

Enjoy!

I had a rust problem from body sweat with a RIA 1911 compact,I bought some KG coating from midway usa and used some blue and rust stripper then degreased the gun with brake cleaner then airbrushed and baked at 400degrees for 1 hour,this coating is abrasion resistant and will withstand a 72 hour saltwater immersion,It's also self lubricating

Nothing better than Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

Nice thing is you make it yourself!

However in about 1 to 1/5 hrs, you can completely disassemble your finish less systema, sandblast, parkerize, and re-assemble a dang near new shooter

Its really NOT that hard

The rust monster got me!!!!

i was breaking down my gun today to leave the frame in the truck and take the slide and ammo in with me when I noticed a LOT of rust on the front muzzle and even going down about an inch into the barrel.

The only thing I can think of is the last time I went fishing I must have somehow got some salt water on the front of the muzzle even though the gun was in my tackle box the whole time.

I'm gonna have to get after it when I get home tonight. That's gonna bug me all day man.

LedJedi wrote:The rust monster got me!!!!

i was breaking down my gun today to leave the frame in the truck and take the slide and ammo in with me when I noticed a LOT of rust on the front muzzle and even going down about an inch into the barrel.

The only thing I can think of is the last time I went fishing I must have somehow got some salt water on the front of the muzzle even though the gun was in my tackle box the whole time.

I'm gonna have to get after it when I get home tonight. That's gonna bug me all day man.

Dude! Lets refinish that dang thing and be done with the rust!

Even if it does flash rush, with good parkerizing you can simply scrub it down with some oil/cleaner and it comes right off!

nahhh, i dont like the look of parkerized finishes. I'd rather stick with stainless.

my taurus doesn't really rust easily at all. in fact this is the first spot of rust i've seen. I just have to be a little more careful when going fishing.

i was breaking down my gun today to leave the frame in the truck and take the slide and ammo in with me when I noticed a LOT of rust on the front muzzle and even going down about an inch into the barrel.

The only thing I can think of is the last time I went fishing I must have somehow got some salt water on the front of the muzzle even though the gun was in my tackle box the whole time.

If you spend a lot of time around salt water or sweat profusely with IWB carry, the best solution is a stainless gun which requires less care, but still takes some maintenance to keep it rust free in these conditions. I carry only stainless or other highly durable finish (e.g. Glock tenifer guns because my sweat is chemically active enough that I can rust a blued gun with IWB carry in 2 or 3 days - even in less time wherever there's a bit of holster wear.

If you stay with regular steel, it's really important to do a field strip and oil wipe inside and out (including the barrel) whenever the gun is exposed to wet or salt air conditions. It's a real good idea with stainless as well.

The well oiled parkerized and baked on finishes recommended by the folks here are excellent recommendations and will certainly protect much better than a blued finish, but they won't solve your inside the barrel problem. Another option would be to go with one of those finishes and install a stainless barrel. You'll still have to keep it lightly oiled, but it'll be a lot more forgiving if you slip up a little once in a while.