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Well I just ordered an AR15 and being new to these I was wondering what
you guys would recommend as things I should also consider purchasing
along with it... Yes, mags & ammo on the way too... What are the necessary
items needed?

Thanks!

Chainsaw.

http://www.zombiehunters.org/forum/view ... t=chainsaw" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[youtube]http://youtube.com/watch?v=3ljd_hUxCfI[/youtube]

got that covered with a Tacticool 12gauge for the Zombies...
plus some trainging aids:

http://www.zombietargets.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

but that chainsaw is pretty sweet!

What did you get?

A large sealable plastic bag and a shovel.
Then more mags and ammo.

I had been looking at seal kits and spring / pin kits in case those COULD BECOME difficult to find. I worry about its complexity and possible part breakage.....I don't keep spare parts for anything else, though.

Chuck TX wrote:What did you get?

still looking for a decent $200 sight and spare parts... here's rundown of the rifle, i think
i did pretty good:

- Forged Henderson Defense Industries HD4 5.56mm lower receiver

- Forged A4 upper receiver M4 cut-outs and assembly with T-marks

- Chrome-lined 4150 barrel made with chrome vanadium steel with 1x7 twist

- 14.5" inch M4 profile barrel with permanently attached YHM flash hider

- Properly staked bolt carrier with correct spring and black insert

- Properly staked castle nut to prevent loosening of receiver extension

- M4 feed ramps in barrel extension

- F-marked front sight base

- Midwest Industries Flip -up rear sight

- 5.56mm chamber

- Magpul MIAD pistol grip

- Magpul MOE buttstock

- Daniel Defense AR-15 Lite Rail 7.0

- Hard shipping case great for range use

- USGI Operators Manual

- Aluminum 30-round magazine with grey anti-tilt follower

- USGI black silent sling

Looks like you got just about everything you "NEED" except a nice trigger!! This is usually the first thing I get on a new AR since the mil-spec ones are pretty much crap. Sounds like you might want to get a 2-stage for this rig. Chip McCormick triggers are nice too.

http://www.talonarms.com/talonarms/inde ... ts_id=1658" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
or
http://www.talonarms.com/talonarms/inde ... ts_id=1262" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

-Rug

since i'm new to this rifle platform, what's this difference between 1 & 2 stage triggers?

rokclimbertx wrote:since i'm new to this rifle platform, what's this difference between 1 & 2 stage triggers?

It's not unique to the Stoner platform. Basically, a single-stage trigger starts engaging as soon as you start pulling it (assuming it doesn't have any creep), and at some point along the travel it breaks and the shot is fired. A decent single-stage trigger will generally have a shorter overall throw than a 2-stage.

The 2-stage triggers came about--like a lot of firearm technology improvements--from military and competition use. Like the name implies, the first portion of the trigger pull is proportionately light, then you feel the second stage as a point of noticeably firmer resistance. At that second point of resistance, you know you're right on top of breaking the shot, and the break will be, on a good trigger, very short and clean.

The obvious advantage is that all the elements of long-range accuracy--controlling sight picture, breathing, and trigger until the break--are better managed because you've "loaded" the trigger a bit during stage one, and now know just a small motion of your trigger finger will break the shot.

The downside (and this is just MHO) is that competition shooting has led way too many folks to get caught up into thinking lighter is always better; they feel they need a 1lb, 2-stage trigger. If you think I'm joking about the one pound, check this survey on the JARD Website (they also make some nice drop-in triggers): http://www.jardinc.com/index.php/compon ... -poll.html; 34.6% of the 185 respondents say they prefer 1lb or less.

That can make for a darned sweet rifle...under precisely controlled, stationary-shooter conditions. But I'd posit it isn't very practical for most uses. A featherweight trigger, even a 2-stage, is inherently less safe. And we've all been told umpteen times that when you get your heart pumping and some adrenaline in your bloodstream, fine motor control is the first thing to suffer. Too, just try to feel that 2-stage, 1lb trigger with even the thinnest shooting gloves. So if all you plan to do is bullseye, bench-rest, or tree-stand shooting, a featherweight trigger is probably fine.

I'm climbin' off the soapbox now. But if you buy a new trigger system, resist the temptation of something so light that a field mouse could pull it just by sneezing. You can get very clean 2-stage triggers at 4lb or 5lb, which I think is a more sane approach for the broadest array of purposes. As always, YMMV.

My Bushmaster varminter has a 2 stage competition trigger, and it is the opposite of what Skiprr describes. On mine, the 1st stage is 3.5 lbs. with a 1 lb. let off. At the end of the 3.5 lb. pull, there is a definite "stop" point which is easily felt, and then the trigger breaks like a glass rod. It is a really sweet trigger - great for target shooting, but I'm not so sure it matters a hill of beans in a home defense weapon.

My M4-gery has a standard trigger from a DPMS lower receiver parts kit, and it is just fine for plinking or shooting goblins. I honestly don't think that I would notice trigger quality in the middle of a firefight or shooting at threatening rocks and soda cans.

i guess i'll wait and see what trigger this one has (single stage would be my guess) and see how i like it...

hope to find some got to have items at the market hall show this weekend...

rokclimbertx wrote:

still looking for a decent $200 sight and spare parts... here's rundown of the rifle, i think
i did pretty good:

- Forged Henderson Defense Industries HD4 5.56mm lower receiver

Good! I think this lower has a "full auto" pictograph along with the "safe" and "semi", so I hope some un-informed LEO/Agent doesn't get all excited about that and make you take a ride. It's perfectly legal.

-

Forged A4 upper receiver M4 cut-outs and assembly with T-marks

Good feature.

- Chrome-lined 4150 barrel made with chrome vanadium steel with 1x7 twist

Easy to clean and I like the 1X7 twist to stabilize moderately heavy bullets.

- 14.5" inch M4 profile barrel with permanently attached YHM flash hider

Good.

- Properly staked bolt carrier with correct spring and black insert

Not much difference in the inserts...but a properly staked gas key is good to see.

- Properly staked castle nut to prevent loosening of receiver extension

Not necessary IMO, but it makes some folks feel better (until you need to change a barrel).

- M4 feed ramps in barrel extension

When done correctly...I like 'em!

- F-marked front sight base

Correct.

- Midwest Industries Flip -up rear sight

Folding BUIS are must (for me).

- 5.56mm chamber

I'd take a Wylde chamber over this (ideally) but a good choice if you want to shoot both 5.56 and .223

- Magpul MIAD pistol grip

Good unit.

- Magpul MOE buttstock

Good unit.

- Aluminum 30-round magazine with grey anti-tilt follower

Look at the Magpul units a little later, you'll like them.




I'd say "You done good"!


See how the trigger works for you. If you are not satisfied then there is a plethora of them to choose from. I'd stick with a single stage unless you are varmint or target shooting.

thanks! i really can't wait for it to come in

i'm waiting on the pmags to be in stock somewhere... the local range guy says he has some on the way so that's a plus... i did find some aluminum 30 rounders and picked them up as well...

regarding barrel changing, i think it would take something catastrophic for me to do that... i have thought about another complete upper with 20" barrel for longer range... but that's a big who knows...

rokclimbertx wrote:thanks! i really can't wait for it to come in

i'm waiting on the pmags to be in stock somewhere... the local range guy says he has some on the way so that's a plus... i did find some aluminum 30 rounders and picked them up as well...

regarding barrel changing, i think it would take something catastrophic for me to do that... i have thought about another complete upper with 20" barrel for longer range... but that's a big who knows...

True...for most folks, and swapping out complete uppers is the easiest thing to do anyway.

The great thing about the AR platform is that it is so "modular". You can have a completely different rifle by simply swapping out an "upper" and using the same lower. After awhile....you'll probably just build a "whole 'nother gun" though.

Most of the expense in an AR is in the upper (receiver, barrel, bolt carrier, bolt, etc). Then if you add "optics" it can really get crazy. Makes the cost of a lower (receiver, firing group, butt stock, etc) look small.

I am in the process of gathering parts to build a .458 SOCOM right now.