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http://abclocal.go.com/ktrk/story?secti ... id=4537187

(9/07/06 - KTRK/SUGAR LAND, TX) - A Sugar Land woman had to kill a neighbor's dog when the animal attacked her and her dog.

Lou May was walking her Highland terrier on Jo Ann Street near Vinehill when a neighbor's Staffordshire terrier broke from its leash and went after them. She ran back to the house, but the dog kept coming. May grabbed her .38 caliber snub-nose pistol and shot the dog in the head right inside her own front door.

"It had run up all the way back up here," said May, referring to her front door. "I was getting right here and I was trying to stop it right there. And it got in my house and when I was trying to stop it here, that's when I went to get my gun. That's all I could do. I couldn't make him quit."

May was treated on the scene for her injuries by paramedics. She took her dog, named McDuff, to an animal ER for the bites on his ear and neck. May says the neighbor's dog had never been a problem before. In fact, she's petted the animal several times. Her neighbor understands she had to kill the dog to protect herself.

A Staffordshire terrier looks very similar to a pit bull. The dogs can weigh up to 80 pounds. They are often used as guard dogs, although if socialized early, Staffordshire terriers can be very gentle pets.

Wow. Interesting story and good article! The media did a good job on this one.

Animals are still the #1 personal defense problem. That is why when shooting or training we set up a small box about 18" long by 4 or5 wide & about 8-10 in tall. That is the dog drill. At any time during targets, talking, any time, I scream "DOG" you have just been attacked & have to draw & fire. You have the same call for me to be "attacked." It is always positioned away from the targets so you have to ID the target & get your shots off.
We have not yet figured a way to simulate the charge. That time factor definately has to be humbling. How long does it take for a charging dog to cover 30-50 ft? Dont know but probably not any longer than it does an assailant w/ a knife to cover 21 ft.

longtooth wrote: We have not yet figured a way to simulate the charge. That time factor definately has to be humbling.

Longtooth,
Just a thought for your evaluation, how about have a line of those targets, maybe 2 or 3 or so. The shooter has to engage the one farthest away first, then the next close, etc.?
Thanx,
TraCoun

That time factor definately has to be humbling.

The miss factor is also amazing. I remember when you introduced this into our shooting session. Trying to shift focus and accurately hit something that small that quickly was very difficult.

Greetings--


Not meaning to hijack the thread here--

One way to make a target object move is to place it on a carriage with wheels. Affix a rope to the carriage. Run the rope through U shaped rebar, driven into the ground. You can generally determine a path the carriage will follow. On signal, someone pulls the rope at an appropriate speed

We use this setup with silhouette targets on stands to simulate sideways running and straight on attack situations.

I like your idea of the dog attack scenario. I'll suggest we add that to a stage.

Piney wrote:Greetings--


Not meaning to hijack the thread here--

One way to make a target object move is to place it on a carriage with wheels. Affix a rope to the carriage. Run the rope through U shaped rebar, driven into the ground. You can generally determine a path the carriage will follow. On signal, someone pulls the rope at an appropriate speed

We use this setup with silhouette targets on stands to simulate sideways running and straight on attack situations.

I like your idea of the dog attack scenario. I'll suggest we add that to a stage.

how 'bout a simple old kids "Red Ryder" wagon with a pull rope, box setting inside?

wondered what all those sirens were about... that was pretty close to home. That web site has a link to a video too.

Piney wrote:One way to make a target object move is to place it on a carriage with wheels

Great idea!
A skate board could be used to keep the target more realist and close to the ground.
Jason

kw5kw wrote:
how 'bout a simple old kids "Red Ryder" wagon with a pull rope, box setting inside?

Lots of holes in the waggon I"d suspect

TraCoun wrote:

longtooth wrote: We have not yet figured a way to simulate the charge. That time factor definately has to be humbling.

Longtooth,
Just a thought for your evaluation, how about have a line of those targets, maybe 2 or 3 or so. The shooter has to engage the one farthest away first, then the next close, etc.?
Thanx,
TraCoun

Good idea. I am going to do that. Have to be a good drill.

longtooth wrote:How long does it take for a charging dog to cover 30-50 ft? Dont know but probably not any longer than it does an assailant w/ a knife to cover 21 ft.

Healthy, fullsize dogs accelerate faster than humans and have a higher top speed than we do.

Found some numbers:

Olympic runners can do several mph better than 20mph
Greyhounds run at around 45mph

I'd guess the 21ft rule turns into something like a 60ft rule for dogs

Yes sir & then you still may shoot yourself in the foot. More than figuratively. Good idea piny. Will try that one too.

longtooth wrote: How long does it take for a charging dog to cover 30-50 ft?

Not very long!

We use standard IDPA targets turned on their side to represent a large dog standing broadside. You can quickly "magic marker" in.. the legs and belly.

If circumstance allows, you will want to shoot before a "charge" occurs.

Often times a dog will change positions while sizing you up. If the opportunity for a broadside shot presents itself, then aim for a spot high on the shoulder in order to break him down. A high shoulder shot might also hit the spine ending the situation immediately.

A charging dog does not represent a very large target...and can be difficult to "track" with your sights. It might be better to pick a spot ahead of his path and shoot just as he enters it. If you miss, move ahead and try again. The shot should become easier to make the closer he gets (which isn't going to take long).

Do not shoot "in the big middle" of a canine standing broadside. See anatomy in link: http://encarta.msn.com/media_701611279_ ... leton.html

Yes sir flint, My thoughts on this have been patterned after the gunners on WWll Bombers. Shoot just in front of the attacking dog (fighter). Fill the path w/ lead then move to the nose of the attack. He will either run into it or break off the attack.
A really bad dog like you are talking about is another no win situation. Shoot him as he circles for a good attack angle & the owner says, you shot my dog, he did not hurt anyone. Wait until he starts the attack & have to hit a target moving at 45mph.
No win.