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(Posted before on another thread, no comments, so re-posting by itself)
Well, I went to The Arms Room today and picked up a Ruger Mark III .22 caliber 5.5", I will get over to PSC Range this weekend at least once, but probably twice to try it out.

I asked the guy at The Arms Room how to break it down to clean it, he said in no uncertain terms "Don't". "most people who break it down to clean end up taking it in to them, in a bag, to put it back together, and their gun smiths will grab a new one to see how it gets put back together." - I am not making this stuff up people, he said it... and I believe him and why wouldn't I?

So he said instead, just use a bore snake for the barrel and a q-tip to clean the breach area.
So I picked up a bore snake for the .22 and for my 9mm

My question then is, do you run it through dry or do you put Hoppe's on it and if so, do you drench it or what is the common trick here? (and does this same philosophy work for all bore snakes or just for the .22?
I ask, as the directions don't say to use any cleaner, it just shows running the bore snake through the bore.

Thanks

Excellent question since I just bought one today. I will be awaiting an answer along with you.

I just spray some barrel cleaner down the barrel and then pull it though.

You could also run a patch up and down the barrel with Hoppes on it and then pull the snake through.

Teamless wrote:I asked the guy at The Arms Room how to break it down to clean it, he said in no uncertain terms "Don't". "Most people who break it down to clean end up taking it in to them, in a bag, to put it back together, and their gun smiths will grab a new one to see how it gets put back together."

Seriously?

My opinion of the Arms Room just plummeted.

C’mon, Ruger .22s have been around since before even I was shaving.

The breakdown and reassembly isn’t gonna look like a Glock, and you would be well advised to own a rubber mallet. But it ain’t rocket science.

If you own a Ruger .22 you absolutely positively should know how to field-strip it, clean it, and reassemble it.

I like bore snakes for a quick at-the-range touch-up, but I don’t consider their use to be “cleaning.”

Firearms deserve more attention to detail...

Skiprr wrote:Seriously?

100% serious. There are no embellishments or exaggerations in my post.

He went as far to say that when they get a "gun in a bag" which is what he called getting a Ruger brought in for reassembly, their smiths get a new Ruger out and break it open just to see how it goes back together again, and if they have issues, they send them (with the owners consent of course) back to Ruger for assembly

Teamless wrote:their smiths get a new Ruger out and break it open just to see how it goes back together again, and if they have issues, they send them (with the owners consent of course) back to Ruger for assembly

In the age of Google and YouTube, that's silly.

I've been shooting Ruger's for over 30 years, but still have to refresh my memory on reassembly because it's not something I do frequently. If you don't have an owner's manual, it only takes 0.5 seconds to find a video on the web.

Teamless wrote:

Skiprr wrote:Seriously?

100% serious. There are no embellishments or exaggerations in my post.

He went as far to say that when they get a "gun in a bag" which is what he called getting a Ruger brought in for reassembly, their smiths get a new Ruger out and break it open just to see how it goes back together again, and if they have issues, they send them (with the owners consent of course) back to Ruger for assembly

So he's telling you that his smiths, who, by implication, have seen this issue several times, are so incompetent that they cannot remember from one time to the next how to reassemble one? And that he's such a poor salesperson that he would admit it.

I would have left the gun lying on the counter and run out of there as fast as I could, there are other places to buy.

As folks have said above, I have owned Rugers for decades and the only issue I have ever had in reassembling has been getting that latch on my .22/45 to line up right and close.

In answer to your question. I put guncleaner down the barrel and then run the brush or snake down the barrel.

oh please ive had mine for a few years now and its not that difficult to take apart and put back together. their is several videos out on youtube if you just cant get it.the problem with just cleaning the barrel that it doesnt get the action clean and stuff does build up in their.

tools:
rubber mallet, i use car body rubber hammer.
a flat nose punch to get the back part out.


tips:
their is no need to force anything.
do not hammer the heck out of it.it should come apart and go back together without forcing anything.

one trick if you take the barrell off is to put the firingpin mechinism into the barrell and then tap the barrell back onto the frame.if you put the firingpin mechnism in last you might have to wiggle and screw around with it for a bit to get it in.just a shortcut if it makes any sence.

the arms room? yea the same people who wanted 2600 for a gun everyone else was selling for 1950.special ordered a gun from them and asked to order an extra mag.they never did call me back to quote me on a mag and when it was goona come in.great customer service.lol

No comment on what the guy at the gun store told you I've only shot Ruger .22 autos never owned one.

Bore snakes I have some experience with. I use them dry pull it through from breech to muzzle several times to break up and remove the crud. I then push a patch through the bore with Hoppes or Ed's Red and let it soak for a while. A couple of dry patches to remove what the cleaner loosened then a final pass with oil to protect the bore from rust.

As an aside: More guns are "cleaned to death" than are ever shot to death. Keep them reasonably clean and well oiled they will run just fine. I only do a full detail cleaning of my handguns once a year.

Thanks for the answers to my question the Bore Snake, for the other comments, that was not my intention to get an Arms Room debate or qualification thread, but just sharing the knowledge as we are all here to do.

There's no way I would buy a gun that I didn't think I could break down and reassemble. I would have thanked the guy and asked to see a different make / model. I like to know how my guns work in detail before I use them, even if they are just going to be used for plinking (but definitely if they are going to be used for defensive purposes).

Ditto what the others said on the bore snake. I have one for every caliber of my guns and they are very good for a quick clean after the range (along with a take along Rem Oil wipe in that nice little pouch). I keep a bore snake and some of these wipes in my range bag.

Skiprr wrote:

Teamless wrote:I asked the guy at The Arms Room how to break it down to clean it, he said in no uncertain terms "Don't". "Most people who break it down to clean end up taking it in to them, in a bag, to put it back together, and their gun smiths will grab a new one to see how it gets put back together."

Seriously?

My opinion of the Arms Room just plummeted.

C’mon, Ruger .22s have been around since before even I was shaving.

The breakdown and reassembly isn’t gonna look like a Glock, and you would be well advised to own a rubber mallet. But it ain’t rocket science.

If you own a Ruger .22 you absolutely positively should know how to field-strip it, clean it, and reassemble it.

I like bore snakes for a quick at-the-range touch-up, but I don’t consider their use to be “cleaning.”

Firearms deserve more attention to detail...

I own one also.

As guns go, it's the embodiment of "....and when all else fails, read the directions" because unless you're a mechanical engineer you're highly unlikely to figure the disassembly out on your own anytime soon. It's completely unlike any other gun.

That being said, once you know how to do it, it's a cinch. The directions from Ruger are OK, but following those while watching one of the available videos is definitely the best way to approach it the first time.

I use the BoreSnake a little differently - after I'm happy with how clean I've got the barrel, I run the Bore Snake through a few times dry to remove any fouling I missed. It leaves the bore mirror bright. (I know this is the opposite of the way the manufacturer recommends, but it's the way I like to do it because I throw away the patches with all the crud on them instead of carrying the crud over from one cleaning cycle to another.) However, if I were in the field and had to do a quick cleaning, I'd use it with solvent as the primary cleaning step.

Be sure to read the owners manual, and get ready to do the ruger hokey pokey. But, to make things easier check do a search on youtube for videos about the process and study up if your unsure on how to do it. On my 22/45 Mk III I typically take it down with paper clips and a rubber mallet. On my Ruger Standard (think Mk I non-target model) all I really need Is just a heavy paper clip.

paper clips for what procedure?

Only thing I can imagine is for initially pulling the latching lever?