TexasCHLforum.com

can one of the glock experts tell me the secret to removing the trigger pin
on a 2nd generation G23 (3-pin model)?

I could have detail stripped and re-assembled a 1911 in less time than I've spent on this
so far.

My various references say you need to 'wiggle' the slide stop lever while pushing on
the trigger pin; I need more detail :-)

This web site shows a trick but its not working for me:
http://stfuretard.blogspot.com/2009/11/ ... oving.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Every video clip I look at shows the pin coming out with ease, so I must be
missing something.

thanks

Why do you want to do this? Cleaning?

I've never done this. Does it need to be done?

Why do you want to do this? Cleaning?

I've never done this. Does it need to be done?

It doesn't need to be done for cleaning. Its for a trigger job and safety installation.

ghostrider wrote:

Why do you want to do this? Cleaning?

I've never done this. Does it need to be done?

It doesn't need to be done for cleaning. Its for a trigger job and safety installation.

Whew! I don't understand the part in red.

It doesn't need to be done for cleaning. Its for a trigger job and safety installation.



Whew! I don't understand the part in red.

thumb safety for us 1911/hi power fans who also happen to have a glock:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... ber=247176" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It enables the same 'manual of arms' as a 1911 and facilitates a high thumbs grip:
http://gunnuts.net/2010/01/15/high-thumbs-pistol-grip/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.orpci.org/content/ipsc_intro/intro_4.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Can one of the glock experts tell me the secret to removing the trigger pin
on a 2nd generation G23 (3-pin model)?

that's funny, Texas Dan, but apparently not recommended :-)

I've done it before to install the 3.5lb connector. I remember wiggling the slide stop but I dont remember which way or how hard. I'll bet Lenny Magill has a video on how to do it.

Or, A-R could probably help you.

From my understanding and practice, there is a certain order to remove the pins. First is the locking block pin, then the trigger pin and lastly the trigger housing pin. Push the pins left to right when removing. Try moving the slide stop up and down (same direction as it would work when the mag is empty and causes the slide to lock back) when removing the trigger pin. Usually, that will do it. Word of advice, when you reinstall everything, put the locking block pin in first, then the other pins. The slide stop spring sits underneath this pin and compresses it. I believe on the glockmeister site, they have detailed instructions and pics. Hope this helps. If it still doesnt budge, you might want to take it to a glock armorer to have it checked out.

If it doesn't want to come out, DONT FORCE IT!




just get a bigger hammer

GR,

Trying to remember if that G23 is a Gen 2 (two pins & no light rail), Gen 3 (three pins & light rail) or a "Gen 2.5" (three pins, but no light rail).

Basically if it's a two-pin version (one above trigger one in back above grip) then the slide stop wiggle and push should do it.

If it's a three-pin version, then in the area above trigger guard you need to remove the smaller TOP PIN first, then you can wiggle the slide stop and remove the larger "trigger pin" below it.

does this help?

- AR

It's a 3-pin generation 2.5 model.

I took it to my gunsmith - it took 2 of them to get the pin out - turns out it was *rusted* to the locking block.

I thought Glock's weren't supposed to rust? :-)

looks like I have an 'extra' lube point on this glock.

It sure goes back together easy now that the rust is removed.

hmm...some chrome or titanium pins might be in order.....
:-)

ghostrider wrote:It sure goes back together easy now that the rust is removed.

hmm...some chrome or titanium pins might be in order.....
:-)

Possibly, although not recommended. You shouldn't have had rust problems though. Glocks rarely need cleaning, but if mine is in a high moisture environment (as in, "soaked in sweat", "dropped in water", not as in "a little rain"), then a de-wetting might be in order. Still puzzles me that the locking block rusted to the pin, but I've only disassembled about 20 Glocks, so I'm nowhere near "experienced".

Sorry, don't believe it because Glocks don't rust. They leave that job for 100 year old designs. And before anyone thinks I flipped my lid, I'm just joking around. Seriously though even stainless steal can rust given the right conditions and lack of care. This is why you should service your firearms, or have them serviced, regardless of what people say about the design .