TexasCHLforum.com

Can anyone tell me how long Durocoat last and how tuff it is?

My experience has been that with normal wear and tear on non-moving, non-rubbing, non-firing surfaces, it lasts quite well. However it will rub off quickly on parts that move across each other and especially on parts that undergo extreme stress/heat from firing process. Example: had an old all-steel S&W J-frame that buddy and I Duracoated. The Duracoat stayed perfect on most of the frame and cylinder for the year or so I used it after it was coated (I sold it after a year), and it was my truck gun so it got banged around a bit, left in hot vehicle all day, etc.

But the front of the cylinder, front of barrel, and a few other areas it rubbed off/deteriorated quickly - after one or two range trips.

This was an "amateur" paint job, but we did follow all the directions closely. With a more professional application, YMMV.

I also have Duracoat on a Mossberg pump shotgun and it has held up very well on all exterior surfaces, but rubbed off quickly on internal parts that slide back-n-forth during cycling of the action.

I used it to apply a finish to an old, beat up 870 I won at a Police auction. I am impressed at how easy it was and how good it works (I painted right over the wood) but even after letting it cure the required time it does rub off where metal to metal parts are. The rest has held up well but I have not used it much since i coated it. I do not think there is an easier way to coat a firearm for around $30. I think the bake on finishes work better but then you need an oven to cure them.

TxLobo wrote:From what I was told, the 3 finishes:

Hydro Dipping - Looks cool, lots of patterns - tends to be fairly easy to scratch and rub off if the clear coat is not done properly.

Duracoat - Tougher than Hydro Dipping - more tough if allowed to dry and cure for a while before use. Will rub off on moving parts easily.

Cerakote - Toughest one they say. It's usually a thinner spray and can be done in a variety of colors and patterns. Less wear on moving parts.. I've seen some beautiful work done with Cerakote, but I've never had any of my firearms done with it.

I was talking to a gunsmith the other day, and he said essentially the same thing about Cerakoting. He also said it is very easy to do touch-up work if it happens to get scratched.

Cerakote > Duracoat IMO.

Birdsong's Black or Green T would be finish of choice, followed by Melonite/Tenifer. Then the cerakote types.


Unsolicited opinion of course...

The Duracoat seems to be a step above rattle can spray paint but I could be wrong. I'm sure a professional application would improve durability.

gigag04 wrote:
The Duracoat seems to be a step above rattle can spray paint but I could be wrong. I'm sure a professional application would improve durability.

That is scary I am glad I did not send mine off. I had a wild ideal of a desert camo for the frame of my Shield.

+1 on the Ceracoat

I was having a rusting issue with my M&P - I had the slide replaced after 6 mos of carrying, within 3 mos the slide and take down lever were rusting again - (I guess I have mean sweat). I had a local smith - Dale Honeycutt of Grip Reductions - do a ceracoat job on the slide and takedown lever and slide lock. Right at a year, no rusting, mild holster wear, but still looks great. This is my primary carry, and I am very pleased with the results.

My AR10 has a professionally applied black DuraCoat finish over a satin finished stainless steel Noveske barrel. The DuraCoat finish seems plenty tough enough and has held up so far on my gun. OTH, it has strictly been a range queen, and it hasn't exactly been to Afgannyland and back.

I have personally Duracoated two of my handguns. An old "beater" 1911 and a Taurus 85 snub. I used the liquid not the spray cans. The secret is to properly prepare the surface and to take your time applying the finish. I sandblasted the surface and thoroughly de greased the surface before applying the finish with an airbrush in light coats.

The 1911 looks great a little wear on the frame rails. The Taurus lived in my pocket for 3-4 years and shows some honest wear on sharp edges. No peeling, no chipping, just a good durable finish. I will probably tear the Taurus down some time re blast it and put a new coat of finish on it. Duracoat needs to have time to properly cure after application. My 1911 sat in the shop for a week before re assembly it sees limited service like I said, it's my "beater."

I think the prep is key. Many people attempt Duracoat because it is easy to do and acquire w/o the ability, tools, or know how to prep metal.

Pro jobs are likely quality work. But, if sending it off and paying someone I'd go a different direction even it only because of the stigma in my mind.

gigag04 wrote:But, if sending it off and paying someone I'd go a different direction even it only because of the stigma in my mind.

Yeah.... I mean I don't know if I would have chosen DuraCoat or not if left up to my own devices. In my case, the gun came with the coating already applied; and since it appears to have been pretty well done, I don't particularly think much about it except when conversations like this one start up. I think that if I had been painting the gun, I might have done the whole thing in some kind of OD or FDE with maybe some leaf/grass patterns sprayed on it.

I tried to find the article but came up short. I remember reading about Durocoat and wearing quickly when working the gun with your holster.

I say this and I have never used any of them.