TexasCHLforum.com

So my general order of operations goes as follows.

1) tumble brass
2) arrange brass in loading block and spray with lube (hornady one-shot)
3) run brass through press
4) trim and chamfer brass (using drill and lee trimmer)
5) wipe down brass with paper towel (done while still chucked up to the trimmer collet on the drill. run drill and press paper towel to case)
6-whatever) prime/load/etc....

So I'm getting really tired of step 5 and cleaning each individual case off. It's time consuming, annoying and starts to make my hand hurt after a while. Can I run the sized/trimed/chamfered cases back through the tumbler?

Is there a better way?

Please advise.

I am assuming these are rifle cases. I just use a large towel, by putting a couple double hands full of the brass in the towel, double it over and rub the towel while it is laying on a table or floor. That usually gets most of it off, or at least all you need to get off the brass. You can go through alot of brass fairly quickly.

For .30-30 brass (only bottle necked rifle I load for), I just wipe the outside off, lube, resize/deprime (trim and chamfer if needed), then throw them into the ultrasonic bath. But I don't really care about the polished look .... just clean.

If I get lazy sometimes ( Or have a lot of them made. ), I drop the finished ammo into a dedicated corn cob media vibrating cleaner for a few minutes.

Don2

You can save a lot of mess on your loading blocks by putting your brass in a ziplock baggie.
Spray the case lube in and zip it up.
Shake well, then open the baggie to let the alcohol evaporate.
After sizing and trimming, I throw the brass back in the tumbler for 30 minutes to remove lube.

You will get a lot of powder and dirt from the primer pockets on your loading block if you spray the brass as you are doing.

What ever works for you!

ddstuder wrote: After sizing and trimming, I throw the brass back in the tumbler for 30 minutes to remove lube.

That's pretty close to my process.

Generally speaking, the recommended process is
1) Clean debris (vibrate with walnut/corn with no polish, this is where the cut-up used dryer sheets should be used). Only need about an hour.
2) Case lube
3) Deprime/resize/chamfer/deburr/pocket clean
4) Polish (vibrate with walnut/corn WITH polish). I usually let each batch run for 3-4 hrs, Mineral Spirits + capful of NuFinish
5) Store for later or reload

ddstuder wrote:You can save a lot of mess on your loading blocks by putting your brass in a ziplock baggie.
Spray the case lube in and zip it up.
Shake well, then open the baggie to let the alcohol evaporate.
After sizing and trimming, I throw the brass back in the tumbler for 30 minutes to remove lube.

You will get a lot of powder and dirt from the primer pockets on your loading block if you spray the brass as you are doing.

What ever works for you!

I have a loading block dedicated to lubing. Even so, how would they get dirty from primer pockets? The cases have a spent primer still in them when I lube and a new one when they get charged. The block is never exposed to an open primer pocket. It does tend to pick up lint, dust, cat hair when the lube gets built up and sticky but it's still fairly clean after 2 years of lube duty.

I've been reloading for about 5 years but I've been using Lee Classic kits which don't require any lube and only neck size. I've started using an RCBS single stage press, I've retired the Lee hand press I have, because I'm loading large batches of 223 for my AR. I'm also doing 38's but I'm using a carbide die so no need to lube.

Seems to be that most people just throw them back in the tumbler for a little bit which I think will be my new plan.

I have not reloaded a single round yet, but need to ask why clean the lube off what is the down side if you don't?

dirt, dust and grime will stick to the lube ... obviously not good in the chamber

suthdj wrote:I have not reloaded a single round yet, but need to ask why clean the lube off what is the down side if you don't?

The lube can become quite sticky and may cause the case to have extraction/feeding problems.

The comments above are relevent but an additional issue with lube retention on the case is it can cause a large spike in chamber pressures. Build up within the cahmber can produce headspace issues and failure for bolt closure. It is really dangerous if there is large amount of lube on the projectile but it can be a factor on the case. The glob of lube/grease on the bullet was a problem in the 1920-30s for the 1903s. There was a competitor belief it protected the barrel and a number of rifles failed the actions during HiPower Rifle Matches.

olafpfj wrote:I have a loading block dedicated to lubing. Even so, how would they get dirty from primer pockets? The cases have a spent primer still in them when I lube and a new one when they get charged. The block is never exposed to an open primer pocket.

I always decap before tumbling rifle brass. it helps clean the pockets out.

I too understand that the brass expands and grabs on to the chamber wall when fired. Oil or lube may let it slip backwards putting excessive pressure on the bolt face.
Now I'm no ballistics expert, but it's what I was told by a few that should know.
Plus it makes sense.

I can also see how the loaded round that has lube could collect dust and other contaminants and may scratch the chamber when fired.

If there is an expert here, please correct me if needed.

Don2

Don2 you are correct excessive bolt face pressure is cited as an issue in Hatcher's Notebook.

Sort of the same idea, I have an old 22 rifle (Marlin mod-60) I use to over oil when cleaning.
22's are known for being dirty shooting.
A lot of old oil would gum-up the works and made it not shoot well. I'm sure that would eventually happen in the chamber also causing extraction problems after a while.

It's just best all around to keep oil/lube off the ammo. AND only very light oiling of the gun in general.
I have read many books on the subject and seen the videos like the Wilson Combat one about cleaning and lube of pistols and all of them say use as little lube as possible.

I just think it's an all around good idea.

Don2