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Just bought a Shield M&P 40 and the trigger pull seems very stiff compared to my 1911 Colt. I have run about 100 rounds through it and dry fired it about another 200 times. Why does it seem to have such a 3 or 4 lb pull before it fires?

Any advice will help.

I have never fired an M&P but compared to the 1911, don't all weapons feel "rough"?

What TAM said.

RHenriksen wrote:What TAM said.

THIS

Also understand M&P is a vastly different trigger action than a 1911 and not intended to be as light as the single-action pull of a 1911.

03Lightningrocks wrote:I have never fired an M&P but compared to the 1911, don't all weapons feel "rough"?

my pick for best answer

A-R wrote:

RHenriksen wrote:What TAM said.

THIS

Also understand M&P is a vastly different trigger action than a 1911 and not intended to be as light as the single-action pull of a 1911.

I just put an Apex Forward Set Sear kit (with AEK trigger) into an M&P CORE. Night and day difference.

That being said, there are less expensive things you can do to your Shield (the Shield Carry Kit is very nice - https://apextactical.com/store/product- ... pid65.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). Frankly, I have always felt like the Shields are, out of the box, fine CCW pistols. The trigger pull is a little long, but not too terrible.

Note: Apex Tactical has videos to help you through the process, but it is not something you should mess with if you're uncomfortable punching out tender parts of your gun (or lack the tools).

Haven't handled a 1911 in many years, but everything is certainly relative. After shooting and carrying a Keltec PF9 for about a year, the trigger on my shield 9mm is NICE.

treeman wrote:Haven't handled a 1911 in many years, but everything is certainly relative. After shooting and carrying a Keltec PF9 for about a year, the trigger on my shield 9mm is NICE.

The weapon I carry and practice with the most is my Kahr PM 9 and my Glock is the second. After shooting either one of them for a hundred rounds or so I get accustomed to the "take up" in their triggers and have then picked up my 1911 and had the first few rounds go off a split second before I am expecting it. I have even accidentally done a double tap. Like you said. It is all relative.

ctwyatt wrote:Just bought a Shield M&P 40 and the trigger pull seems very stiff compared to my 1911 Colt. I have run about 100 rounds through it and dry fired it about another 200 times. Why does it seem to have such a 3 or 4 lb pull before it fires?

Any advice will help.

If your M&P Shield only has a 3-4 lb trigger and it seems stiff and heavy next to the Colt, I wonder how much of a feather trigger you have on that 1911...

In all actuality, the M&P Shield probably has a heavier trigger than you realize. Our fingers are a bit stronger than we think they are. As for why it's so much heavier or stiffer than a 1911, the Colt's trigger is far, far simpler. There is only one piece of metal between the back of the trigger and the hammer on a 1911 (well, two, there's the sear disconnect). The actual sear is a fairly thin and precisely cut edge of metal hooking into equally small and precisely cut notches on the hammer. The sear only has to move about two millimeters on this contact to trip the hammer. You don't -want- a trigger any lighter than 3-4 lbs on a carry 1911, for the most part, as you really do not want a sudden jolt or jarring to accidentally knock the sear off the hammer hooks and unintentionally fire the weapon. This simple trigger/sear/hammer arrangement is one of the big reasons for a 1911 (or ANY single action) to have a manual thumb safety.

The M&P has a completely different trigger system. I've not messed with it personally, but looking the gun over, I can't imagine how it could be any simpler than a 1911. More springs, different angles of transfer of force from the trigger to the sear, and just general differences in construction theory all combine to make the trigger feel very different.

JSThane wrote:plastic rubbing on plastic as opposed to metal on metal (which you can polish super smooth)

Uh, you can delete that part of your sentence, because there's no "plastic" in the trigger mechanism of the M&Ps, except for the trigger itself (and that's not what causes friction/trigger pull/reset issues).

There is a place online that shows you how to take apart your M&P and modify your sear and a couple other parts to address takeup and reset, but I'm not going to link to them, as it involves fully disassembling your M&P and then grinding on things that S&W does NOT want you to grind (and will, naturally, void your warranty). Stick with the Apex stuff if you really want to change your trigger on your M&P.

OldCannon wrote:Uh, you can delete that part of your sentence, because there's no "plastic" in the trigger mechanism of the M&Ps, except for the trigger itself (and that's not what causes friction/trigger pull/reset issues).

Thanks. Edited.