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I seem to remember there was something on the proper mix of Tung Oil/BLO to refinish a military stock. I did a search and probably due to my lack of computer skills, I didn't find anything. So here goes, what do you all suggest that the proper mix of Tung Oil/BLO should be? I would like a semi-gloss stock for my RC K98K.

Appreciate

From what I can tell linseed oil was the standard for military stocks, but tung oil was tried as well. Finishing a stock with linseed oil is a long long process and even BLO takes a long time. Some of the methods I've seen talk about several months. If you are looking for authenticity I suppose linseed oil is the way to go, but apply it very very sparingly and allow it to dry between coats. BLO gives more sheen than Raw. Tung oil's a better sealer than RLO or BLO but neither are good sealants against moisture.
I saw a recommendation for Formby's Tung oil finish somewhere, but I don't even know if it's still available. Search some of the military gun forums and military surplus websites and you can find any number of methods for refinishing. There's a product called Fairtrimmer's Military oX that you might look into also. I don't think any of these will provide a semi-gloss finish. That would best be accomplished with Tru-oil and steel wool.

Thanks Puma Guy...

Go to the Civilian Marksmanship Program forum. There is lots of info on people refinishing new and old M1 Garand Stocks. Go here: http://forums.thecmp.org/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Look through the choices to find stock information.

You don't mix Tung oil and Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) Tung oil should be used alone or with some Japan Dryer and BLO already has the dryer in it. You can add extra dryer to the BLO to make it dry faster.

I have used both on stocks both are labor intensive and require hours of application and rubbing to get the finish you desire. Tung oil dries out to a nice satin finish linseed to a rich flat finisn. Tru Oil© is a commercial stock finish containing Tung oil Linspeed© is a linseed oil stock finish both are great. Formby's© is Tung Oil biased and comes in several different gloss levels. There is no better nor more beautiful stock finish than a well done hand rubbed oil finish.

I hope this has been helpful. We are all tempted to take the easy route but sometimes the old tried and true methods are what we need to do. Let's see the stock after you finish it.

Real tung oil requires that you sand between each coat and a two to three day drying time between each coat. Applying tung oil is very slow as it usually needs between five and seven coats.
Most finishes advertised as tung oil are actually a wiping varnish. This includes Formby', Minwax, and Deft Danish. These finishes are a lot less labor intensive than applying real tung oil and do an adequate job.

just something to consider

whatever oil/finish you use (I've done a couple of rifle stocks with Danish Oil, but not mil type), I would strongly recommend not using steel wool. Steel wool will leave metallic fragments in the pores of the wood that may, or may not eventually become unsightly. I'm no professional wood worker, but experience learned from other better versed in the subject than me tend to recommend working the oils into the wood with 400-600 gr wet/dry paper and no "washing" between applications. This method uses the finings that are cut by the paper to be worked in with the oil to fill the pores. After each successive batch of applications of 2-4, move to a finer paper .... i.e. 600-800, then 800-1000, etc. By the time you get to the 1000+ papers, you're getting to the stage of pretty "non-absorbant", and final finishing can be done with dry paper coffee filters and then polished with a rag.

my opinions only

JD

I appreciate you all's assistance. After reading your responses and those from CMP, I believe I have a path forward. If I can figure out how to post pictures, I will do so.

Dan

mr surveyor wrote:just something to consider

whatever oil/finish you use (I've done a couple of rifle stocks with Danish Oil, but not mil type), I would strongly recommend not using steel wool. Steel wool will leave metallic fragments in the pores of the wood that may, or may not eventually become unsightly. I'm no professional wood worker, but experience learned from other better versed in the subject than me tend to recommend working the oils into the wood with 400-600 gr wet/dry paper and no "washing" between applications. This method uses the finings that are cut by the paper to be worked in with the oil to fill the pores. After each successive batch of applications of 2-4, move to a finer paper .... i.e. 600-800, then 800-1000, etc. By the time you get to the 1000+ papers, you're getting to the stage of pretty "non-absorbant", and final finishing can be done with dry paper coffee filters and then polished with a rag.

my opinions only

JD

I should have been clearer regarding steel wool. I was speaking of Tru-oil which leaves a sealed coating on the wood. Rotten stone can also be used. I didn't mean use steel wool to prep the stock. As yo stated sand paper should be used to prepare the wood.