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I’m planning on taking one of my AR’s in 223 and setting it up for predator hunting. I’ve already got one camo’d out with the stock and trigger that I want but I’m thinking that adding a bipod and nice scope will really complete it. I am also wanting to add a night eyes gun light to run on top of it. Short range 40yds and in I use a shotgun but 50yards and out to 250-300 is where I’m lacking. Im not sure really what power scope to go up to. Im looking at a couple vortex and leupolds at the moment

I'm not really an optics expert, but I'd think you probably wouldn't need more than 9-10x magnification at the most and could probably do just fine with something in the 4-6x range. Then, IIRC, if you zero at 50 yards you're only going to be 1-2 inches off (high) all the way out to about 250 yards where it crosses again on its way down.

Primary arms 1-8x with acss reticle. Then you have some adjustable zoom and drop compensation built in from 100-800 yards.

Also, BTW, if you go with a red light for your night eyes light, consider what color your reticle will be and whether or not it will be washed out by the light. The light I have for this type of application is green and both of my lighted reticles are red, so the isn't any issues.

FWIW, I have been quite pleased with products like the one in the link below. After it being on my want list for a couple of years, I paid around $150 for the first one at a gun show. Then found virtually the same product online later for less than half that $. Green flashlight capability all the way to zoomed down for use as a laser. I mounted one under a 20" barrel AR then used flathead screwdriver to synchronize the laser with crosshairs on 3.5-10X (Explore Optics) scope. Last use was on a jackrabbit just after sunset. Was able to get green flashlight beam zoomed to about 3 foot diameter at around 100 yards, then had plenty "soft" light to put the crosshairs on target. I bought the last one of these to use unmounted for preliminary spotting, without spooking, theoretically.
https://www.amazon.com/Ade-Advanced-Opt ... flashlight

My dad runs a primary arms 1-6 and I was thinking about the 1-8 as well. Good point with theoretical color and the light color I never thought of that

http://vortexoptics.com/product/vortex- ... ad-reticle




$880 at optics planet (MSRP = $1250). Of all of my variable power scopes, this is by far my favorite. If your AR and chosen load are up to it, this scope will be good for any distance up to about 800 yards, while still having low enough maginfication to be useful at 50 yards.

https://youtu.be/U5gRgR_NDNk


You’re welcome.

Although not really needed in daytime, I like higher magnification for night so I have up to 12 power scope. I would invest in a tripod type Shooting rest, even a good bipod allows too much movement and you need a steady rest for the long shots. Whatever optic you choose, keep in mind that you will be making quick dope adjustments, whether you use Kentucky windage or dial in is up to you but I’ve never had enough time to dial in so keep that in mind when choosing a scope.

mrvmax wrote:Although not really needed in daytime, I like higher magnification for night so I have up to 12 power scope. I would invest in a tripod type Shooting rest, even a good bipod allows too much movement and you need a steady rest for the long shots. Whatever optic you choose, keep in mind that you will be making quick dope adjustments, whether you use Kentucky windage or dial in is up to you but I’ve never had enough time to dial in so keep that in mind when choosing a scope.

Which is exactly why a scope with a milling-type of reticle is so handy. It’s not that I’m some kind of bad sniper, it’s that holdovers and Kentucky windage are easier when you have some kind of reference points in the reticle. It can be either a Mil or an MOA reticle, as long as the turret clicks match the reticle graduations - usually .1 mil clicks for milling reticles, or .25 MOA clicks for MOA reticles. They make it easy to zero, and then the holdovers/windage hash-marks should work quite well. Zeroing a scope like that can be done in two shots - 1 shot to determine POI and make adjustments to POA, and a 2nd shot to confirm zero.