what to use to clean and lube polymer internal frame parts?
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what to use to clean and lube polymer internal frame parts?
What you you guys use for cleaning and lubing them, please?
- Lumberjack98
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- GlockenHammer
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- jbirds1210
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I will often use Tetra Gun Spray, which is similar to Gun Scrubber but leaves behind a very thin and light lube. I use this on the internal parts of the frame that I don't want to dismantle. Very quick and easy.
Of course this lube would not be suitable for the parts of the pistol that see lots of friction, such as a slide.
PhilR.
Of course this lube would not be suitable for the parts of the pistol that see lots of friction, such as a slide.
PhilR.
I'm currently using Tetra Gun Cleaner and Lube spray also(along with tjeir Gun Juice, Cleaner and Bore Conditioner, and precision oiler).
But was slightly concerded when the Gun Cleaner/Lube Spray said to "test" on plastic parts before using. I say no bad effects on polymer, but didn't know if over time it might.
Thanks
(Breakfree CLP is sounding good to me too from the numbers here and elsewhere recommending it.....when my Tetra supplies run out)
But was slightly concerded when the Gun Cleaner/Lube Spray said to "test" on plastic parts before using. I say no bad effects on polymer, but didn't know if over time it might.
Thanks
(Breakfree CLP is sounding good to me too from the numbers here and elsewhere recommending it.....when my Tetra supplies run out)
I spray Simple Green on the internal parts of my polimer guns. Rinse with HOT water and blow dry with compressed air. I use an air compressor but the cans you buy at the computer store will work too. Then I lube with whatever the oil du jour is. I really like Mobil 1 a quart costs about $6.00 and will last for a long time.
"To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
The Simple Green works on most organic fouling. The only thing it hasn't taken off for me is copper and lead, both need specialised cleaners and tools to effectively remove. It will leave the metal oil free and it will need to be oiled to protect from rustdaddySEAL wrote:does "Simple Green" work well on powder fouling?
"To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
Just to let you know -- the tests I've seen reveal that Breakfree CLP is not very effective for rust prevention. I use it for cleaning and light lubrication, but I will not depend on it to protect metal from rusting.daddySEAL wrote:OK, I guess I'll stick with the Tetra gun cleaner/lube blaster that I have.
Maybe next try Breakfree CLP
PhilR.
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Polymer components (like the frame of a Glock) don't require lube, just wipe 'em off with a clean cloth. You can scrub any grit off polymer with a bit of CLP or mild solvent (really "aggressive" solvents will attack plastic, CLP is safe for this use though) and a toothbrush, then wipe the polymer afterward with either patches or a dry cloth.
I use the CLP/toothbrush/dry cloth approach to clean the magwells of my H&K USP pistols (these pistols have polymer frames). Conversely, steel or aluminum framed pistols (like my Sig P226) need a light coating of lube inside the magwell.
The H&K frames do have steel rail inserts that the pistol's slide "rides" on...these small spots do need a bit of lube. For those steel inserts, I generally use a tiny amount of TW-25B grease.
I use the CLP/toothbrush/dry cloth approach to clean the magwells of my H&K USP pistols (these pistols have polymer frames). Conversely, steel or aluminum framed pistols (like my Sig P226) need a light coating of lube inside the magwell.
The H&K frames do have steel rail inserts that the pistol's slide "rides" on...these small spots do need a bit of lube. For those steel inserts, I generally use a tiny amount of TW-25B grease.
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I use powder blast and CLP from Break Free.
Seems to work well.
I polished the breach end and muzzle end of my XD40 service and the clp has kept the bare polished metal rust free for several weeks now.
BTW I carry "mexican" IWB no holster while I power wash at night. High humidity and all.
Saulnier
Seems to work well.
I polished the breach end and muzzle end of my XD40 service and the clp has kept the bare polished metal rust free for several weeks now.
BTW I carry "mexican" IWB no holster while I power wash at night. High humidity and all.
Saulnier
Duct Tape Doesen't Rust.
911, Please hold?
911, Please hold?
I've never had one of my firearms show any signs of rust, save for one rifle I loaned my brother. I also used CLP in the Army, back before the civilian world got a hold of it, and never had any rust on my weapons there either - and I was Infantry - my weapon got a lot of use.PhilR. wrote:Just to let you know -- the tests I've seen reveal that Breakfree CLP is not very effective for rust prevention. I use it for cleaning and light lubrication, but I will not depend on it to protect metal from rusting.
PhilR.
That first shot through a CLP cleaned barrel smells lilke warm apple pie to me :D