Love leather. Any tips?? But don't tell the Mrs she says I have too many hobbies

Moderator: carlson1
YouTube has several videoscmgee67 wrote:Hey guys I wanna get into making some leather holsters and need to know what I need to do to get started. I have been making kydex stuff for a while but I really
Love leather. Any tips?? But don't tell the Mrs she says I have too many hobbies
cmgee67 wrote:Hey guys I wanna get into making some leather holsters and need to know what I need to do to get started. I have been making kydex stuff for a while but I really
Love leather. Any tips?? But don't tell the Mrs she says I have too many hobbies
Good luck!To start with, when I am designing a new holster, I use file folders for paper patterns. The come folded in half and are stiff enough to make a good pattern for tracing around. The file folders are heavy enough to wrap around the gun so you can get a 'feel' as to how you want the holster to look. Use the fold down the middle of the file folder to be the center of the fold of the holster. That is where the sights will be. Once I get the pattern where I want it, and cut it out of paper, I trace the outline onto the leather. Then cut the pattern from the leather.
Now, at the shop we dye the leather pattern first to give it color, but for practical purposes you can wet the leather with water. I use hot tap water in a bucket, where I can dip the leather in and out quickly. Don't let it soak. Three to five seconds in hot water is enough. The heat, and the water will soften it enough to bend it around the gun. Mark your stitch lines with a pencil lightly.
Before you stitch the main seam, you have to stitch any belt loops etc., on the back before you close up the holster. There are creasing tools that are used to crease the edges, but you don't really need to do that. You can smooth the edges by wiping them with a damp cloth, like a wash cloth, and then go over them with a dry towel to slick them down. The edges will get nice and smooth, almost glassy looking. To keep them glassy, apply some dye to the edges and burnish again with the dry towel. That lays down the fibers.
Then fold the holster and glue it for the final stitch. You may have to dampen it again, but don't get it too wet. Put the gun into the holster and mark (lightly with pencil) the stitch pattern on the leather. Don't put the dowel in for the sight track at this time. You will have enough room in the leather to force the dowel up from the muzzle end after the holster is stitched. This will insure that the holster won't be too sloppy. After stitching, sand the stitched edge with regular sand paper wrapped around a small piece of scrap leather, or wood. Try to round the edge and get it smooth. Wet the edge and slick it down like you did before with the wet rag, and dry towel. Put some dye on the edge to hold down the fibers, and slick the edge again until glossy.
Now it's time to mold the holster. I would prefer to let it dry before wetting it again, or it may get too wet and it won't hold the mold. After the holster is dry, wet it again in hot water. In and out, don't soak it. Put the gun in the holster (in a baggy), or if you work fast you won't need a baggy. Put your dowel, in for a sight track, and proceed to mold the holster with your thumbs, and fingers. Make sure your hands are clean, so you don't stain the leather. When the holster starts to look like it is drying, take the gun out, and let it dry overnight. No HEAT!
The next day try the gun for fit. It should be snug, but not too tight. Then you can apply the dye, and when that is dry, put a finish on the leather. If you don't have any leather finish, use neutral shoe polish, like Kiwi.