1911 problem
Moderator: carlson1
1911 problem
So... I was at the range today with my 1911 and during the first clip it went to half cock after the majority of the shots. After the first clip it was fine, and the same ammo was used throughout. I put maybe 60 or so rounds through it with no further problems (well, one failure to extract, but that happens.) Any ideas? Worn sear? I thought it was odd that it only did it on the first clip and not after that. It has done this once or twice before but never repeatedly. Any input is appreciated.
Have you done anything to the trigger or sear spring? A weak sear spring can cause this as well as an attempt at lightening the trigger pull too much. Try this, with the gun empty, drop the slide if the hammer falls to half cock then hold the trigger back and rack the slide and let it fall if the hammer stays at full cock then you need to try a new sear spring or try renditioning the middle leaf of the sear spring.
"To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
Very true.9mmGuy wrote:your 1911 uses magazines, not clips... good luck with your issue
MoJo,
I haven't modified anything, though I didn't buy this gun new. I don't think anything has been done to affect trigger pull and it seems like a normal trigger pull to me (relative the other 1911 I shot and other single action autos.) When I drop the slide it stays in full cock. If I manually put it at half cock and then rack the slide with the trigger pulled it goes to full cock. Any thoughts?
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I would suspect a weak sear spring or possibly a worn sear or hammer. Sounds like you need to detail strip the gun and carefully examine the parts.
Jerry Kuhnhauson has a great book that describes how to do this is complete detail if you have never done it before.
Here's a link to a source.
http://www.rayrilingarmsbooks.com/cgi-b ... /9437.html
Jerry Kuhnhauson has a great book that describes how to do this is complete detail if you have never done it before.
Here's a link to a source.
http://www.rayrilingarmsbooks.com/cgi-b ... /9437.html
Ahm jus' a Southern boy trapped in a Yankee's body
You could try this 1911 forum, manufacture reps use it also http://forums.1911forum.com/index.php
You got some real good advice from folks that are more familiar with 1911s than I. Because it acted up when you first fired it and then the problem went away I would be suspicious of some hardened gunk up near the sear and the hammer release. Clean thoroughly and lube generously in that area.
BTW, I understood exactly what you meant when you refered to a clip. Good luck!!
BTW, I understood exactly what you meant when you refered to a clip. Good luck!!
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"Today, we need a nation of Minutemen, citizens who are not only prepared to take arms, but citizens who regard the preservation of freedom as the basic purpose of their daily life and who are willing to consciously work and sacrifice for that freedom." John F. Kennedy
txmatt,
You didn't mention the brand of gun not that it really matters. The fact the gun is used means you don't know how many rounds have been through it nor, any modifications that have been done.
The first thing you should do is field strip the pistol, remove the grips, and clean it with some Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner. Be sure to spray the cleaner into all the nooks and crannies. Then, with an air compressor or a can of air blow out any debris the cleaner didn't remove. Carefully lube the gun with a quality oil, reassemble, test for function, and take it out to the range for a test firing. If this doesnt solve the problem then it may need the services of a qualified 'smith.
You didn't mention the brand of gun not that it really matters. The fact the gun is used means you don't know how many rounds have been through it nor, any modifications that have been done.
The first thing you should do is field strip the pistol, remove the grips, and clean it with some Gun Scrubber or brake cleaner. Be sure to spray the cleaner into all the nooks and crannies. Then, with an air compressor or a can of air blow out any debris the cleaner didn't remove. Carefully lube the gun with a quality oil, reassemble, test for function, and take it out to the range for a test firing. If this doesnt solve the problem then it may need the services of a qualified 'smith.
"To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
Thanks everyone. I will try cleaning it like you have described and take a close look at the sear.
MoJo,
Just curious, what is a "quality oil"? Hoppes lubricating oil? That's all I've ever used to lubricate/protect my guns.
It's an auto ordinance, btw. Pre Kahr takeover. I think the PO may have put a heavier main spring in; I've replaced the barrel bushing and had the extractor tuned at a local shop.
MoJo,
Just curious, what is a "quality oil"? Hoppes lubricating oil? That's all I've ever used to lubricate/protect my guns.
It's an auto ordinance, btw. Pre Kahr takeover. I think the PO may have put a heavier main spring in; I've replaced the barrel bushing and had the extractor tuned at a local shop.
Just about any "gun" oil will work. I like Corrosion X and Mobil 1. I have an AO 1911 also, it is loose as a goose but it goes bang every time you might want to consider replacing the sear, hammer and disconnector with some high quality aftermarket ones. I put Wilson parts in mine and haven't had a problem since.
"To disarm the people is the best and most effectual way to enslave them."
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
George Mason
Texas and Louisiana CHL Instructor, NRA Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun, Personal Protection and Refuse To Be A Victim Instructor
I had a 1911 issue the other day and had to send my back to Smith and Wesson and I also got this email thought it might help others.
OK, let's clear one thing from the begining:
Letting the slide run forward at full speed, with no magazine in the pistol, is harmful for your beloved 1911.
Do not do it.
The above action can destroy a perfectly good trigger job.
Another question we often receive is this:
"When I let the slide run forward without a magazine in the pistol, the hammer follows to half-cock. Is this normal?"
The answer is of course NO. The hammer should not follow to half-cock when you release the slide (even though you should not release the slide without a magazine in place).
What happens here is that the slide rushing forward jerks the whole gun forward. Your pistol's trigger, obeying Newton's laws prefers to stay put, so it nudges the disconnector hard enough to disengage the sear from the hammer hooks.
Do the following test:
Lock your slide open and while holding the trigger back, release the slide. If the hammer does not follow the slide in this test, then you can correct the problem by applying some more pressure on the disconnector, by bending the central sear spring prong inwards, towards the front of the pistol. If the hammer follows with the trigger pulled back, then your problem is more involved, and has to do with the sear/hammer engagement.
If your pistol passed the above test with the trigger pulled back, then proceed to check it doing a normal reload with a couple of rounds in a magazine. In other words, insert a magazine with 2-3 rounds in the pistol, lock the slide back and let it ram forward at full speed (DO NOT HOLD THE TRIGGER BACK NOW). If the hammer does not follow, you are probably OK. If it does, then you'd better have that pistol serviced as soon as possible.