Polishing Chambers

JLaw · Post by **JLaw** » Tue May 30, 2006 8:06 pm

What is the correct procedure to polish the chambers in the cylinder of a revolver, Flitz, 1000 grit paper and oil, etc? I've got a revolver that has a few chambers that don't always allow clean ejection of fired cartridges. Most loads fired are lead SWC's if that makes a difference.

JLaw

HighVelocity · Post by **HighVelocity** » Tue May 30, 2006 9:07 pm

I can't say what the "proper" procedure is but I have fixed rough chambers with my dremmel tool, cloth wheel and jewelers rouge.

lrb111 · Post by **lrb111** » Tue May 30, 2006 9:49 pm

I've been through some of this just lately, with two separate guns. With the first, a 581 M-frame .357 S&W it turned out the problem was enlarged cylinder bores, They were caused from shooting full power loads for years.
Once a cartridge was fired it became swollen in the center of the case and was actually larger than the opening to the bore.
The cure was a new cylinder from Brownell's and learning how to install a new style cylinder in a older style gun. I'm grateful for the experience, but would have been just as grateful if I had sent the gun into S&W.

The second is a new economy .38 Spec. Comanche II. It presents some interesting problems. For exampl, I have learned that if i cup my empty hand around the casings, and keep them all tpward the center of the ejector, they nearly always come out clean.
But let 4 of them fall out of their own accord, then the last two will bind and become stuck. This is not a full bore polish job, it's only a light chamfering around the bore opening to take the "edge" off that bites the cases.
Take care not to chamfer the ejector plate. You want it to keep its edge.

I personally use lapping compound, from the local machinist's supply. I use 600 and 1000 grit. I put a hardwood dowel that most closely fits the bore in a hand drill, and then dip the dowel in the lapping compound.
I blow out the waste with carbuerator cleaner.

I have also taken to dripping Rain-X into the cylinders after cleaning. The silicone dries nicely, and leaves a slick, but dry surface.

edit:fat fingers

Kalrog · Post by **Kalrog** » Wed May 31, 2006 8:26 am

I sent mine to a friend in the gunsmithing program at the Colorado School of Trades. I'll post pics when I get it back.

tex45acp · Post by **tex45acp** » Wed May 31, 2006 2:44 pm

I have a shaft that fits my Dremmel and will hold rolled up Croqus Cloth. I use Croqus Cloth on any internal surfices for polishing. It works great.

Kalrog · Post by **Kalrog** » Wed May 31, 2006 5:30 pm

lrb111 wrote:I have also taken to dripping Rain-X into the cylinders after cleaning. The silicone dries nicely, and leaves a slick, but dry surface.

That is an interresting idea. How does that work out for you?

lrb111 · Post by **lrb111** » Wed May 31, 2006 11:02 pm

Kalrog wrote:
lrb111 wrote:I have also taken to dripping Rain-X into the cylinders after cleaning. The silicone dries nicely, and leaves a slick, but dry surface.
That is an interresting idea. How does that work out for you?

Pretty well. It seems to make cleaning simpler also. I've used it [abbreviated profanity deleted] ryears as a lube on things like cabinet hinges. Places where oil would gum up with the ever present west Tx dust., seem to really benefit.

I'm contemplating using the stuff on cleaned inside surfaces. I haven't tried the Mil-Spec lube. but it's on my list of thngs to try, soon.

Cosmo 9 · Post by **Cosmo 9** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 4:35 pm

Jlaw, does unfired, factory brass eject smoothly?

JLaw · Post by **JLaw** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:12 pm

Cosmo 9 wrote:Jlaw, does unfired, factory brass eject smoothly?

Negative, Cosmo 9. Not sure if it ejects more smoothly more often (never really kept tally), but I've had hang-ups with new factory brass as well as my reloads. I've also had on occasion where when the ejector is pressed swiftly, one round will end up under the ejector star (I'm sure that's not correct terminology, sorry), and then it's a real pain to get that round out. Comments on that??

JLaw

lrb111 · Post by **lrb111** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 5:08 am

JLaw wrote: I've also had on occasion where when the ejector is pressed swiftly, one round will end up under the ejector star (I'm sure that's not correct terminology, sorry), and then it's a real pain to get that round out. Comments on that??

JLaw

It may be the total of the problem, but the shaft of the ejector that comes to the rear out of the cylinder has way too much slack in it, from the description.

Cosmo 9 · Post by **Cosmo 9** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 9:39 am

I agree with lrb111 your problem may be the ejector. Try loading spent brass and then use a new pencil to slowly eject one case at a time. You don't want to enlarge a cylinder that doesn't need it. A chamfer on the edge won't hurt anything. I should also add that I am not a gunsmith, I just like to tinker.