How do YOU Clean a handgun

[marksiwel]

Seen several different version of this, been taught multiple versions of this
Wondering what YOU do.

I'll start.
I have a Browning Hi power
I do a field strip untill I have
The Barrell
The Spring
The Slide
and the Bottom half of gun/with trigger. (I also take off the Gripps)
I wipe it down
I spray the heck out of it with WD-40,
wipe it down
Then I go through with Hoppes Gun Cleaning Aersoal Spray and hose it off some more.
Wipe it down.
Then I get some compressed Air, either the stuff in the can or a compressor and blow all that crud out
Then I break out the q-tips and get into the detail work on the gun.
I use a Hard Metal Brush and cleant he Barrell, then I get some hopes 9 and swap it through untill I Cant see anymore gunk.
Clean the spring.
I oil everything,
Put some gun grease on the slide and around the barrel.
Put it all back together
Then work slide couple of time, wipe out excess oil.

I have a Walther p22 I do the same with, but I was told/heard that the Hopes 9 and the wd-40 would warp the Plastic on the gun. I've heard the same about Glocks/xds
Any truth to this?

[Purplehood]

I don't know about the veracity of those statements, but I do know that if a Marine or Army armorer ever caught me putting WD40 on a US Government weapon they would have a minor conniption (not to be confused with a major).

[marksiwel]

I don't know about the veracity of those statements, but I do know that if a Marine or Army armorer ever caught me putting WD40 on a US Government weapon they would have a minor conniption (not to be confused with a major).

Whats wrong with the WD40?

[Purplehood]

I don't know about the veracity of those statements, but I do know that if a Marine or Army armorer ever caught me putting WD40 on a US Government weapon they would have a minor conniption (not to be confused with a major).

Whats wrong with the WD40?

It was one of those things that were never explained. You were told it was a No-No and that was it. I wonder if any Armorer's could chime in on the reasoning for that.

[marksiwel]

I could see if you left it on for too long and let it dry, it can get kinda gunky

[Beiruty]

I think DW-40 is degreaser and gun gunk cleaner, for gun powder cleaner and rust protection stick with a good gun oil

[bdickens]

I saw people put all kinds of things on their weapons, including WD-40.

[android]

WD is for Water Displacer. It's supposed to displace water when trying to dry out stuff that isn't supposed to be wet and then evaporate leaving a thin film of oil.

It has some mineral oil in it. But mineral oil evaporates quickly also, and should not be considered a lubricant for high friction applications.

It's has it's place in the parts cleaning process, but I wouldn't use it as a lubricant.


It was invented in the 1950's and we have a lot better lubricants available to us now.

[dcphoto]

I agree with android.

WD40 is fine for cleaning, but make sure you get it all off because it will gum up when it dries and can stop up the works in your gun. I also use WD40 when I know I'll be putting a gun away for a while and I don't want it to rust. For that I drench the gun and put it in it's container with some paper towel to soak up the excess. You just have to remember to clean it up really well when you put it back in service.

Even though WD40 was made 60 years ago it has been improved over time. There are still better lubricants for your gun, so just buy a modern gun oil.

[Dragonfighter]

WD-40 is a deep penetrating degreaser and can really screw up the protection film on the sliding parts, expose microscopic pits that then promote oxidization (rust). It can damage bluing and remove case hardening and depending on what other compounds are on the weapon, fuse/glue moving parts. It is a good rule of thumb not to clean a weapon with anything that will start your car.

Added in Edit: Good ol' Hoppes #9 is a great powder and gunk solvent. Break Free (PTFE) is a good gleaner/lubricant, especially when in the field. I use Hoppes #9 and finish with a light coat of RemOil spray, dry wipe with a silicone laden cloth.

[dicion]

It is a good rule of thumb not to clean a weapon with anything that will start your car.

Actually, they recently changed the propellant or something, I believe. As I tried to ignite a spray of it a few months ago to no avail.

It no longer appears as 'instantly' flammable as it once was.

[MoJo]

Wd40 and 3 in 1 oil should not be used on firearms. Wd40 will dry out and leave some gunk behind besides it will seep into primers and cause misfires (takes a long time). 3 in 1 dries out and leaves a sticky varnish behind. Use gun cleaning products and avoid penetrating oils many really good scopes have been ruined by spraying them with Wd40 to "protect" them.

[Dragonfighter]

Wd40 and 3 in 1 oil should not be used on firearms. Wd40 will dry out and leave some gunk behind besides it will seep into primers and cause misfires (takes a long time). 3 in 1 dries out and leaves a sticky varnish behind. Use gun cleaning products and avoid penetrating oils many really good scopes have been ruined by spraying them with Wd40 to "protect" them.

I remember my dad talking about some of his colleagues in the "Flying Wheels" (OHP) used WD-40 to clean their ammo for inspection. Then when they went to qualify, they found the ammo fouled. I do not believe anyone found this out under dire circumstance, thankfully.

[marksiwel]

so I think we have WD-40 covered, what about Cleaning, the hows and whys

[Dragonfighter]

Okay, first thing is don't use WD-40

Seriously, for a SA, field strip down to where you have barrel, slide, guide rod, spring and lower frame with mechanics (trigger, sear, safety, etc.), it shouldn't be necessary to go any further. I start with using a good solvent and a bore brush on the barrel to break up solids. Next use a tooth brush and solvent to clean the receiver. Finally, wipe the outside of the barrel and then dry it with a soft, lint free cloth. Swab the bore and receiver too, typically a cleaning rod will have a patch holder that screws in the end. Run patches through until they come out without any residue. Then apply a couple of drops of a good lubricant (not WD-40...sorry) formulated for guns. I like Break Free and RemOil, the latter comes in an aerosol as well. Run a swab through once to distribute the oil (I sometimes place the oil on the patch and run it through). Next use the powder solvent and clean the underside of the slide and the rails. Wipe and apply a light coat of lubricant (this is where the aerosol comes in). Wipe (I have a cloth that has built up a good residue of oil but still dries sufficiently). Next I use an air can (like for computers) to blow out the works in the frame. I then make sure that the ramp is clean and use solvent and my trusty toothbrush, but sparingly...I don't want to gum up the works. A couple of drops of lube on the grooves. The spring and guide rod typically don't get dirty, but while she's opened up use a little lube on a cloth and wipe down the rod and spring. I wouldn't get too much into the frame because typically (unless you have a really loose pistol and really nasty powder) but check it for residue, if you see a fair amount of powder staining in the works, I would have an armorer check it as your getting blow by somewhere.

Don't complicate it too much, don't use too much lube. Use stuff made for guns. Use air to blow out close fitting parts. Every once in a while you can take it down further but not for normal use.