Old S&W 49 j-frame ... questions

[A-R]

So I finally picked up the steel S&W J-frame I alluded to in this thread http://www.texaschlforum.com/viewtopic. ... sh#p368132" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

But now I have a bit of dilema with my choice for how to refinish this gun. I don't have photos of the gun, but will try to add some later. But I have done some research based on serial #340xxx and the tell-tale signs that it has a pinned barrel and flat-latch cylinder release, and it seems this Model 49 (no dash) was produce around 1963 - give or take a year or two.

So the pinned barrel, flat latch, and no dash leave me wondering if this gun either is now or could soon become a bit of a collectors' item? This could change what I plan to do with this gun and how I would refinish it. From reading in other forums, as a collectable the original finish is always prefered. However, this finish is too far gone IMHO to be collectable. So the next best thing to original finish is a Smith & Wesson factory reblue (about $190 - $230 depending on type of finish). But if this gun has marginal collectable value and will just be a carry gun, then I'd more likely go with modern corrosion-resistant finish from robar.com, coalcreekarmory.com or others.

Obviously this gun was used, carried, and likely served it's purpose well. I put 50 rounds through it and really like the way it shoots, one of the better J-frame trigger pulls I've felt. The finish is serviceable for a short time as a beat-up old carry gun, but at some point definitely will need a refinish. And likely it's better to do that now than later (regardless of whether this is a collectable or a carry gun) because there is evidence of old rust and mild pitting in some areas and continued carry - especially in a pocket holster during a Texas summer - is sure to add to this problem.

So, realizing this is a CHL forum and not a S&W collectors forum, what would y'all do? I could pose this question in other forums, but this is the only gun forum which I am currently a member.

Any suggestions/opinions appreciated. Experience and/or references to expert opinion greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

PS: For those interested in such things, I ended up trading about $300 in true value for this gun (a shotgun for which I paid $170, 2 boxes of non-USA WWB .380 for which I paid $20 each, and $100 cash).

[wheelgun1958]

Any refinishing will detract from a collectible. A factory refinish will be the first choice. I don't think your model 49 will be much of a collectible for years to come. I would, if I were to refinish it, would go with a type of guncoat finish. I've had this guy http://www.shootiniron.com do a few of mine with good results.

[A-R]

Any refinishing will detract from a collectible. A factory refinish will be the first choice. I don't think your model 49 will be much of a collectible for years to come. I would, if I were to refinish it, would go with a type of guncoat finish. I've had this guy http://www.shootiniron.com do a few of mine with good results.

Have you tried or seen for yourself guncoat finishes on a revolver? I'm concerned about the extra layer of coating negatively affecting the tight fitting parts etc. Or is this coating only applied to the outer portions of the revolver, i.e. not the inner mechanics?

[wheelgun1958]

Q...CAN TUFF-GUN BE APPLIED TO THE INTERNAL WORKING PARTS OF A
FIREARM? WILL IT AFFECT THE FUNCTIONING?
A...YES, TUFF-GUN IS APPLIED TO THE INTERNAL WORKING PARTS OF EVERY
FIREARM THAT WE DO A "STANDARD JOB" ON. SOME AREAS, SUCH AS SLIDE RAILS
ON SEMI AUTO'S, NEED TO BE LAPPED AFTER THE TUFF-GUN IS APPLIED BUT THIS IS
PART OF THE JOB AT MAC'S AND IS INCLUDED IN THE PRICE.

http://www.shootiniron.com/FAQ'S.html