Sidro, yes I knew about STI Spartan (foreign parts, but assembled about 15 miles from my house in Georgetown, TX - so at least they got it half right). And I did read the gunblast article (I really like that guy). But I'm still enough of a 1911 novice that I often miss a lot of the finer points about specific parts for comparison sake. I know from reading and handling a lot of 1911s at guns shops etc., that getting a gun set up just right for your particular hand etc is crucial. I've long thought I'd just buy a Springfield MilSpec or GI model until I held one and didn't like it at all (too blocky, hard cut corners, and lack of the exaggerated beaver tail). So I guess I'm not the 1911 purist I thought I was - I like a lot of the modern upgrades. But also don't want/need/can't afford - a top end all-American STI.Sidro wrote:AustinRealtor have you read the article Andy referred to on gunblast.com? It may answer some of your questions. Also the STI Spartan is made in the Phillipines and not here, STI GPS-6 is made in Slovakia. The Ruger SR1911 should be all american make from what I can find.
What Andy said about Caspian frames is correct. They are by Pine Tree Casting which is owned by Ruger and I believe that for a while that Wilson frames were also done by PTC.
It should be an excellent firearm and just cannot wait for it to get here.
All that said, I think this will likely come down to reading some first-hand reviews (eagerly awaiting yours, Sir Guinea Pig
), finding out a bit more about MIM parts etc. (which I doubt I can reasonably avoid in a sub $800 gun), and finally holding the gun in my own hands. (NOTE: this gets a bit off topic, so might end up moving this last part elsewhere - but since y'all are so graciously helping me in this thread ... )
I guess from my limited knowledge these are the specific parts that would seem to be determinitive of how well a 1911 fits a particular user
- Extended beavertail - must have
- grip safety - same part as the beavertail, I realize, but talking specifically about shape of the bottom portion on back of grip that fits into palm of hand ... flat or different shapes with slight hump at bottom (McCormick style vs. Wilson style - or something like that). Seems I prefer the style that is a more subtle curve instead of the pronounced hard-edged hump - if that makes any sense
- mainspring housing - still a bit unsure on this one, material (plastic, aluminum, steel) and shape (straight, curved, exaggerated curve).
- thumb safety - definitely extended - ambi? not as critical, but still like the idea if it comes with it or is an easy swap
- slide release - unsure of different choices here - regular, extended, and super long (or something like that?)
- hammer - unclear on all the different choices and reasons why
- trigger - short or long? plastic, aluminum, steel? solid or skeletonized?
- front strap of grip - plain or somehow enhanced texture (seems to be something you want on the gun when you buy it - otherwise expensive gunsmith job?)
- forward cocking serrations (I like these on my S&W M&P45, but don't know that they're mandatory)
- Tac Light picatinny rail (really not sure on this one - like the ability to mount one if I need it, but don't like the looks ... at this point probably avoid it on my first 1911).
- overall surface material - greatly prefer stainless or nickle plated or some advanced coating/rust proofing - my first pistol years ago was a Colt Mustang and I carried it daily and hated the way that blued gun rusted - one of the big reasons I replaced it with a Glock instead of a Colt Defender
- Barrel - traditional bushing barrel or newer bull barrel (seems to be big choice in various STI configurations). I do like to shoot IDPA, so until they decide that yes many folks DO CARRY bull barrel 1911s and its OK to allow them in CDP class, I guess I'd go with bushing barrel for now.
- size/weight - for my first gun, I'm about 90% sure I want a full-size steel-frame 5-inch barrel 1911 with full 7-round (or is it 8-round?) grip length.
