ar-15 oil or grease?

[ghostrider]

I'm currently using FP-10 and I think I'll stick with it (until I run out, then I'm switching to synthetic motor oil);
I was just curious what others used.

[mdoan300]

As Kieth Jackson might say, "Whoa Nelly!" All this talk of grease and copious amounts of oil is kind of scary. In my experience, a light coat of oil on all the internal mechanisms, plus slightly more oil on the contacting areas (the shiny parts where there is metal to metal friction) is what I religiously swear by. Don't know who the video guy is, or his experience, but this has served me and my Infantrymen well in countless engagements in some fairly harsh conditions. Too much oil, and especially grease, can hold carbon deposits, dust, dirt, sand, etc. All of which can lead to jams and fouling. The only exception to this rule would be in the harshest conditions, where you have already experienced significant jamming, in which case more oil can be used to break up whatever is causing the jam. Grease, LSA, and other thick lubricants are specifically for belt-fed, automatic weapons (holds up to the excessive heat better than oil) and stamped receivers (read AKs, Gallils, and a variety of European stamped firearms, due to their liberal tolerances). Specifically, with an AR though, you need to keep her clean, or she will not be happy for long.

That is the old way of thinking. I recommend visiting m4carbine.net and searching and reading why dripping wet in the correct areas is better. The AR will run ok wet and dirty, but not dry and dirty. This is a great article to get you started: http://www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for the topic, I use Breakfree CLP, but will switch to Mpro7 LPX.

[jimlongley]

Grease is essentially oil with a thickener. I use both on all of my guns depending on what, where, and even when.

[Excaliber]

As Kieth Jackson might say, "Whoa Nelly!" All this talk of grease and copious amounts of oil is kind of scary. In my experience, a light coat of oil on all the internal mechanisms, plus slightly more oil on the contacting areas (the shiny parts where there is metal to metal friction) is what I religiously swear by. Don't know who the video guy is, or his experience, but this has served me and my Infantrymen well in countless engagements in some fairly harsh conditions. Too much oil, and especially grease, can hold carbon deposits, dust, dirt, sand, etc. All of which can lead to jams and fouling. The only exception to this rule would be in the harshest conditions, where you have already experienced significant jamming, in which case more oil can be used to break up whatever is causing the jam. Grease, LSA, and other thick lubricants are specifically for belt-fed, automatic weapons (holds up to the excessive heat better than oil) and stamped receivers (read AKs, Gallils, and a variety of European stamped firearms, due to their liberal tolerances). Specifically, with an AR though, you need to keep her clean, or she will not be happy for long.

That is the old way of thinking. I recommend visiting m4carbine.net and searching and reading why dripping wet in the correct areas is better. The AR will run ok wet and dirty, but not dry and dirty. This is a great article to get you started: http://www.ar15.com/content/swat/keepitrunning.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

As for the topic, I use Breakfree CLP, but will switch to Mpro7 LPX.

Thanks for the great article. I picked up several tips that will go into my standard practices.

[mdoan300]

Thanks for the great article. I picked up several tips that will go into my standard practices.

This is another good one with regard to running wet and dirty: http://www.slip2000.com/art-swat2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Rugrash]

I took Tac Rifle Operator from Paul Howe at CSAT and on the last day he showed us how he maintained his AR. To our astonishment, he pulled out a shaving brush and wiped on lithium grease in every conceivable nook and cranny. Then when we thought he was finished, he did it all again. He said anything that didn't need to stay in the gun would seep out and you just wipe it off. We were very surprised to say the least. I pretty much use break free to clean and I like FP-10 to lube. I'm not sure what grease Paul was using but knowing him, it could have been a jar from AutoZone :-)

[carlson1]

[youtube]http://youtube.com/watch?v=x0dGQ3MDN-Y[/youtube]

[NcongruNt]

I've started using Gunzilla on all of my guns, including my AR. The advantage over oil is that it leaves a slick film when wiped dry that doesn't collect dirt like wet oil will. I've read lots of praise from people over in the sandbox how well it reduces malfunctions and the amount of crud that collects in firearms. I will sometimes use Hoppe's Gun Grease on the contact "rails" of the BCG, as it's very light and I've found that it doesn't gunk up the action.

Beyond all that, I treat all of my guns with Microlon Gun Juice, which is some incredible stuff. It is unbelievable how much it slickens up the action of a firearm, and the difference it makes in how smooth rounds feeds is phenomenal. The AR is up next for Microlon treatment - I just haven't gotten around to ordering more, as I exhausted all of the stuff I had on hand.

[mjoplin]

Probably get flamed, but.....

I clean my AR (and my Kel Tec, Kimber, Sig, Walther) after each range trip with Hoppes 9 and generic brake cleaner spray. All get a very light coat of red high temp grease and all work great. Have seen the oil/grease debates go on constantly especially with AR and Kimber. I bought a tin of red high temp grease in the automotive section at Wally World and at the current rate of consumption it should last decades.

[OldCannon]

Gunzilla, Froglube, Ballistol -- all work excellent in wet or sandy weather conditions.

Militec, as somebody has mentioned earlier, is also awesomesauce.

Frankly, I'm moving away from petro-based lubes and to "green" type lubes (not because I'm a hippie tree-hugger either!) for a variety of reasons. My Breakfree CLP and Hoppes bottles are gonna get AWFUL dusty.

One other thing to consider -- nickel-boron coated BCGs run amazingly well in a dry condition, or with a little bit of militec/froglube/ballistol on friction areas.

I have some Gunzilla and like what it does, but I'm not convinced it's dramatically superior to Froglube or Ballistol.

[carlson1]

I use Gun Butter on my pistols, but I am not for sure about an AR.

[Commander Cody]

Lubriplate 130-A Mil. Spec. works great for me.

[glbedd53]

I know this is an old thread but I picked up some ProGold MFR7 today. I had never heard of it before but the reviews I could find were positive. I know it's hard to prove one gun lube is better than another but I can't resist, I have a gun lube fetish. I would like to know if anyone else has used it.

[carlson1]

I have not heard of it. I ended up buying Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Grease. We will find out.