How to lighten trigger pull on P238?

[JeepGuy79]

I have a P238 equinox and like the gun a lot but man the trigger pull is like 4k lbs lol. What is the best way to drop the spring pressure on the trigger? I don't mean a trigger job like the trigger/sear surface, I just mean the spring pressure itself. Is there a mainspring out there I can swap in that will just drop the pressure there?

[MoJo]

Is this a carry gun? If it is I wouldn't go changing springs etc. by yourself. Send it back to SIG or find a gunsmith who is knowledgeable of the SIG trigger system. By changing the springs to too light you may have a really nice trigger on a gun that isn't reliable.

[LSL]

Another concern on changing trigger pull for a carry firearm is -- should that firearm ever be used in a defensive action -- legal beagles might howl that a modification was made, and they might hound you, claiming the change was done by a "trigger happy" individual.

Not a reputation one would want -- in a court room or anywhere else for that matter. IMHO

[Rex B]

Another concern on changing trigger pull for a carry firearm is -- should that firearm ever be used in a defensive action -- legal beagles might howl that a modification was made, and they might hound you, claiming the change was done by a "trigger happy" individual.:

I think such stories are more urban legend than something to be concerned about.
How would anyone else know if you changed the trigger pull?

[JeepGuy79]

I took it apart. I am pretty familiar with the 1911 firearm. This is a bit different. Especially where the sear/ejector is. The trigger part of the main main spring has a bend in it about half way up maybe 40* forward toward the trigger. I straightened out the spring mostly. I understand why they want a carry gun with a single action to have a solid trigger but it is really like 10lbs or so from the factory. It is not just mine all are heavy like that. I have it down a lot... maybe 5lbs or so now. Much better now.


Anyone else who doesn't like the heavy pull right before the break, just remove the main spring and straighten out the bend in the trigger spring. Simple as that. I looked online and saw a lighter weight mainspring for sale I might try too. See which is better. But right now I dig it. I don't mind a light trigger. I am not putting my finger on it unless I am going to shoot.

I guess 4k lbs was a bit of an exaggeration, but I bet it was every bit of 10lbs. A lot for a single action! Thanks for the tips guys.

[WildBill]

How does it shoot now?

[JeepGuy79]

dunno yet. going to take it out this weekend

[Rex B]

What is involved in getting that mainspring out?

[JeepGuy79]

What is involved in getting that mainspring out?

pretty much taking the whole gun apart down to the frame. remove the slide, grips, remove the safety (watch out for the detent and spring to not go fly away), punch out the pin at the bottom of the mainspring housing, punch out the sear/ejector pin, remove them, punch out the hammer pin, remove the hammer assembly and hammer spring, then slide the mainspring housing down and while you do unhook the mainspring from the trigger bar and stuff with your punch while you slide it down. The whole housing will slide off the gun and the mainspring is attached to it. If you just want to lighten the pull by bending the factory spring like I did then you don't even have to pull the mainspring off of the housing just straighten the trigger bar part of the mainspring. It is bent forward like 45*. I am going to get a lighter weight spring for a colt mustang and try to swap it in. If you get a lighter spring just replace it in the housing. Then just put it all back together in reverse. It is a little tricky and time consuming. Pay attention to how stuff comes out.

If you have stripped or built a 1911 before it is very similar minus the lack of grip safety and the different sear with the ejector on it. If you are not really comfortable with the 1911 platform or pretty good at home gunsmithing you might want to get help tearing it down the first time and putting it back together. Good luck. Oh and I am not responsible for anyone modding their own gun or suggesting you do this. I am just saying how I did it and stuff.

[JeepGuy79]

I wasn't happy still with the trigger pull so I tore it down one more time. I decided to arch the mainspring back a little bit (very little) and then I stoned and polished the sear and hammer. I also polished the trigger bar connecting point a tiny bit.

Checked it with a trigger pull gauge and I am at 3.8# now. Not bad since it was 10.5# to start and I just used the factory parts. It is crisp and light like a 1911 SA type pistol should be. I might buy a steel trigger for it and tap it for an over-travel screw. maybe.

As it is now the groups are much tighter. Crazy tight for a little .380. Double taps are so much tighter it is insane. I am a .45 guy but with accuracy and low recoil like that I honestly feel safe packing a .380. Totally out of character for me. Sig should offer these with a lower trigger pull I think.

[Wally]

I agree totally. However, due to liability issues, SIG , at this pont in time, have no intention of aftermarketing match triggers.
Which I find totally counter productive. I have fired several SIG P 238 handguns, on rent ranges.
They all, end up causing me to wander out of true, when, trying to squeeze the trigger, distracts you from your point of aim.
Ok I am an old competition shooter, and my Feinwerkbau 65 has a slight take up, and a crisp 500 gram let off.
Ok thats an olympic grade air pistol, but my Colt Diamondback .22 and my S & W 686 .357, both are about 2.5 lbs in S/A.
I know, in a stressed situation, I can keep my sights on target.
If I ever got to own a SIG P238, it would definitely be off to a reputable gunsmith for trigger work/ change.
Ok, back in my army days, we had the SIG Neuhausen p 210, That thing was a Jewel , unfortunately the price hindered it, in becoming widespread.