Question about building custom targets.

[TexasComputerDude]

Hey yall,

I have been planning on building some round steel targets welded to stakes that I can place in the ground. I plan on shooting rifles and my .45 at them. Is the bullet ricocheting off of a steel target something I really have to worry about? I had planned on angling the targets towards the ground. I don't plan on shooting them closer than say 5 yards. Basically I want to walk amongst them and simulate real life situations.

I have a ton of scrap metal and some of its pretty thick. I'm sure a thick plate won't be damaged by my .45 or rifle.


so what do yall think? are these targets a good way to get myself shot?

[seamusTX]

I know by personal experience that pieces of a .22 bullet can ricochet back 15 yards from a steel target. These things are meant to be shot at much longer distances.

- Jim

[flb_78]

Make em out of wood.

Steel will simulate you being shot back at.

[HerbM]

Nothing wrong with steel per se -- just don't shoot them from close range (depending on caliber etc.).

Steel Challenge, IDPA and USPSA all use steel (some of the time at least.)

You might look at their range specifications for the safe distances.

[Excaliber]

Unless you make them out of armor plate steel, you will either punch holes in them or dimple them with .45's and centerfire rifles. The next time a round hits one of the dimples or the edges of the holes, it will ricochet off at high speed and an unpredictable angle. The projectiles may strike the shooter, a bystander, or take a trajectory that bypasses your backstop and exits your range area into whatever else might be nearby. I'd rate all of these as undesirable outcomes.

If you want to use steel targets, my advice is to save the fabrication effort and buy the professionally made ones. Then strictly follow the recommendations on ammo types and distances.

A safer option would be to use the self healing material targets that allow a bullet to safely pass through without ruining the target. There are lots of versions out there. Check out a few examples available from Cheaper than Dirt at:

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/TARGET02 ... -2135.html

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/TARGET02 ... -2135.html

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/TARGET02 ... -2135.html

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/TARGET10 ... -2135.html

http://search.cheaperthandirt.com/searc ... &start=110

[flintknapper]

3/8" mild steel will hold up just fine to .45 acp (I've been shooting mine for 15 yrs, now).

You can not use high velocity rifle rounds on them though. If you plan on shooting them with anything that exceeds 1500 fps then you'll start to dimple them. Higher...and you'll drill holes them. You need hardened steel for most rifle calibers.

A word of caution concerning .22 rimfire: I don't what to attribute it to, but .22's seem to be the worst offender when it comes to having "shrapnel" come back. I do not allow anyone to shoot steel with .22 rimfire any closer than 15- 20 yds.

I shoot with my .45 as close as 5 yds...but recommend you stay 7-10 yds. out to be safe. You may expect the occasional small piece of lead or copper jacketing to come back. It is fairly rare....but it does happen.
Angling your targets helps considerably...but there is always the chance. I've never had any serious injuries from bullet fragments, but ALWAYS wear good eye protection when shooting steel and require all observers to do so as well, NO EXCUSES!

I don't really like "rigid" targets and prefer to make mine where they can either fall or be moved in some fashion. All of my "plates" and "pepper poppers" will fall (assuming a good hit and power factor) and my "humanoid" targets are attached by chains between a framework, so they can move backward a small amount... absorbing the energy.

Take the time to make your steel targets well...and they will provide you with years of good service.

Expect to become addicted to shooting steel however! The instant "feedback" (visual and auditory) is the "Cat's Meow" as far as I am concerned.

I'll try to post a few pics this weekend.

[quidni]

Instead of rigid steel plates, hang them... I'm sure you've seen the swinging targets that have two plates at opposite ends of a vertical bar that can rotate around a steel crossbeam? You hit one just right, you can get it to "propeller" around the pivot Or, just a simple single plate on a pivot that allows it to swing back and forth when you hit it.

Won't completely eliminate the possibility of ricochet, but does help to diminish it. (as long as you don't shoot the frame!)

[flintknapper]

For steel plates that can be arranged in any kind of order I make mine like this:



The plate is 3/8� mild steel (9� diameter) with a piece of ¼� flat stock welded to the back.

The “stand� is nothing more than ½� round stock (cold roll) with a base at the bottom and a “seat� at the top. I drilled a hole in the base that allows the round stock to through about 10� and then weld it in place. This way… I can simply step on the plate and sink the stand into the ground (unless the soil is ultra hard or rocky).


The “seat� (that the target hangs on) could be made a variety of ways, but a simple method is to bend some square stock (as shown below) and weld it to the top.



I welded the flat stock on the back of the plates “off-set� (not in the middle). This way…I can adjust the amount of energy necessary to dislodge them from the stand. Those shooting minor calibers will want to position the plate like this:



Those shooting more powerful weapons will set the plates up like this:




Continued next post………..

[flintknapper]

Everyone is familiar with “pepper poppers�, I make mine like this:



Again, the same construction is used for the base ( a base plate with 10� of round stock welded to the bottom). This makes for a quick set up in any reasonable soil (devoid of rocks or large roots).



Humanoids are exact replicas of official IDPA targets.




Continued next post……..

[flintknapper]

I suspend them between a frame with chain so that they can swing and react to impact.




Here is an example of the “splash� you will see when the target is hit (it would be much more noticeable if the target had been freshly painted flat black).




This is what I could find left of a .45 bullet I fired (found about 3 feet in front of the target).



The rest of the fragments will typically “wash� out to the sides. Depending upon the bullet weight, construction, weight, velocity, you may find all of it, part of it, or none of it.

I would discourage folks from shooting .22 rim-fire on any of these targets though. They just a have a way coming back. I have smaller, lighter, targets for the .22’s

[TexasComputerDude]

NICE!


Good job on those man.

[Excaliber]

NICE!

Good job on those man.

3/8" mild steel will hold up just fine to .45 acp (I've been shooting mine for 15 yrs, now).

I agree!

The targets shown in the photos are very well thought out, cleverly designed, and very nicely made. Flintknapper is clearly a highly talented guy.

I wasn't clear in my original post about steel dimpling. My intention was to recommend armor plate material if the targets were to be used for both .45 and centerfire rifle. I agree that properly selected mild steel will work with pistol rounds like .45, .38SPCL, etc.

The frames around the targets in some of the pictures have a few holes and dimples from the occasional errant round. Have there been any ricochet experiences when rounds hit the frames instead of the targets?

[HerbM]

I suspend them between a frame with chain so that they can swing and react to impact.

I am SO JEALOUS

[jbirds1210]

Flint-

I gotta get up there and shoot some of that steel Wow...I would have to sell blood to finance ammunition if that was in my backyard.

Jason