The bro-in law and sister borrowed a couple of my SS 1911's for their CHL course. They passed...Yea! BUT...they idiot scratched both of my guns when they cleaned them. I haven't said anything, didn't want to hurt their feelings. The BIL has owned a 1911 Colt for 35 years......of course, I have never examined to see if he has a gulley above the trigger on the left side.
Anyone aware of an easy way to repair other than sanding the frame and polishing with Mother's? Thought about a dremmel sp?? tool......
If it is a stainless frame you can buff it if it is not too deep. However, unless it is a mirror finish already (i.e. satin) you will usually end up with a higher polished area than the rest of the frame. I have been able to buff the scratch and then use a 2000 grit sand paper to lightly scuff the area and get it close to the regular finish, but it is not an exact match. You wouldn't notice riding by on a galloping horse anyway.
Keith
Texas LTC Instructor, Missouri CCW Instructor, NRA Certified Pistol, Rifle, Shotgun Instructor and RSO, NRA Life Member
Keith,
That's what I was afraid of. I have an SS commander that I sanded out some holster marring and it polished out like chrome plating......ended up polishing out the entire slide.
Have you ever done an acid treat to simulate the frost? It's almost like a light sandblast (real light). Reminded me of the acid etch finish used on glass.
EDIT: take it back they are both brushed.....I thought one was a LWCC......they are both SS 5" springers......I won't be able to duplicate at home....and I don't have a fast horse......I could just leave them in the holster.
Thanks,
Cotton
In cleaning a 1911, you have to remove a slide lock to remove the slide/barrel/etc for cleaning. Its a pin that goes through the frame, above the trigger on the left side. When replacing (reassembly) the slide lock, it drags on the frame, scratching it. 1911 folks call it an idiot scratch.
I'd load a picture, but this computer doesn't have the right software on it right now.
Too bad. Although a idiot mark won't harm the function of the gun, it will effect the looks and aftermarket value.
If your BIL has had a 1911 Colt for 35 years, and scratched your guns with his attempt at cleaning, either
he's "owned" the Colt and never fired/cleaned it, or his own 1911 is nicknamed Scarface.
Bead blasting the frame might help if the mark is not too deep.
I'll practice with a wire brush on my grinder......on something other than the SA loadeds, see how bad it looks on a scrap piece of stainless. Guess I could polish them up to a mirror finish and call them "custom"
Let me say at the get go that I'm not familiar with the finish on that part of your 1911 but if it's similar to a "brushed" finish on stainless steel the fix may be quite simple.
First you have to get a sample piece of steel like a piece of key stock from the hardware store to practice with. While you're there get several sheets of "wet / dry" paper, it's the black sandpaper, in grades from around 400 down to about 100. You'll also need a piece of wood no more than a half inch square and about 6" long (the handle of a wooden industrial "tooth brush" is perfect). A wood dowell works also.
What you want to do is to find the grit of wet /dry paper that will duplicate the scratch pattern on your 1911 frame by stroking the paper on the steel key stock and compairing the result with your frame.
At some point you need to make your sanding block tool by laying a sheet of regualr sand paper on the counter top and taking your 6" piece of wood in your hand like a pencil and sand a flat on the "point" of the wood. While you're doing this practice moving your arm from the elbow only keeping the wrist locked and the fingers imoble. This gives you the ability to move the "pencil point" in an absolutely straight line with no side to side motion and no loops or arcs at the end of the stroke. This is necessary to match the scratch pattern on your frame which is arrow straight.
When you're ready, cut off a small piece of the selected wet /dry paper, put it over the idiot scratch and push it across the surface with the wood "pencil". Keep doing this until the scratch is gone. It helps to use water or oil as a lubricant as you would when stoning a steel surface; the paper will last longer without getting gummed up.
"With atomic weapons, as in many other things, knowing what to do isn't nearly so important as knowing what NOT to do." -- J. Robert Oppenheimer, 1946
Wisdom comes from reading the instructions. Experience comes from not reading them!
I must confess that I have an idiot mark on my TLE2 (by reason of excuse, it was my first 1911.....) Mine is not SS.
I didn't even notice it until I read this thread.
Any ideas on "fixing" it?
As an aside, when I first bought it, I found out another "idiot mark". I was putting it back together, without wiping the lube of my fingers. The recoil spring plug sprang out and hit me square in the forehead leaving a clean semi-circle. I've learned a bit since then, but the thought of it still "stings".
Laws that forbid the carrying of arms...disarm only those who are neither inclined nor determined to commit crimes... (Jefferson quoting Beccaria)
... tyrants accomplish their purposes ...by disarming the people, and making it an offense to keep arms. - Supreme Court Justice Joseph Story, 1840
Harbor freight has a "air eraser" which is essentially an airbrush that uses very fine abrasive.
I intend to buy one just for purposes such as this. Cost is $39.95
I have a bead blaster that works for certain finishes, but it's too coarse for many, including a Colt Mustang SS.
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“Sometimes there is no alternative to uncertainty except to await the arrival of more and better data.” C. Wunsch
Rex B wrote:Harbor freight has a "air eraser" which is essentially an airbrush that uses very fine abrasive.
I intend to buy one just for purposes such as this. Cost is $39.95
I have a bead blaster that works for certain finishes, but it's too coarse for many, including a Colt Mustang SS.
I think some fine (wet) sanding and this "air eraser" sounds like an excellent suggestion, particularly since mine are scratched inside the trigger well, too.