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Ok. This is probably a dumb question but here goes. I got a great deal on a gen4 glock 19. I took it apart to clean it, and one of the innards looks bent to me. On my XDM, this piece is totally straight and parallel to the direction that the barrel will sit. On the Glock 19, it bends slightly inward. I've attached a (bad) pic of what I'm talking about. Is this the normal shape for this part, or is this indicative of a problem. Rounds chamber just fine, but I've not had a chance to shoot it just yet.

Thanks!

In my expereince, it's normal for the 9mm Glocks to have that angle to the ejector.

9mm ejectors are angled that way in Glocks. 40S&Ws are straight.

lkd wrote:9mm ejectors are angled that way in Glocks. 40S&Ws are straight.

All the 9mm's are like that in Glock pistols.

Thanks guys.

On this brand new gun, I added a little oil to the barrel exterior and where shown in the manual but didn't clean anything but the barrel. It says to avoid the copper-looking lube so I didn't do any real cleaning on the slide/frame. I ran a solvent soaked brush through the barrel about a dozen times and followed with dry patches till they came out clean and dry. Anything else I should do before taking it out to the range?

Do not over-oil it. Glock specifically instructs you to only use a drop in a few specific locations. Glocks run best relatively dry compared to, say, 1911s which like to run fairly dripping [ ] with oil and grease.

NOS wrote:

lkd wrote:9mm ejectors are angled that way in Glocks. 40S&Ws are straight.

All the 9mm's are like that in Glock pistols.

Correct. When I had a 27 (.40) I was going to convert to a 26 (9mm) I bought that 9mm "bent" ejector part, (and the 9mm extractor and spring loaded bearing) so the 9mm case wouldn't whap me in the head as it ejected.

newTexan wrote:Thanks guys.

On this brand new gun, I added a little oil to the barrel exterior and where shown in the manual but didn't clean anything but the barrel. It says to avoid the copper-looking lube so I didn't do any real cleaning on the slide/frame. I ran a solvent soaked brush through the barrel about a dozen times and followed with dry patches till they came out clean and dry. Anything else I should do before taking it out to the range?

When I took the armorers course (AGI), we were taught to use a q-tip with oil on it to lube the gun. Never use more that one end of the q-tip, and don't add more oil to it once it's saturated (not dripping). Pay close attention to the "lock up" points on the barrel. The only place we were told to actually place 1 drop of oil was into the "cup" of the trigger connector. I would recommend putting that drop on your connector when you clean your gun as well. This keeps the trigger lubed and clean and keeps your trigger smooth. If you fail to do this the trigger won't feel consistent after it gets some carbon in there. If you do accidentally remove some of the copper lube, it's not a big deal. It is only there to aid in the breaking in of the gun. It won't harm the gun if it is removed. The ONLY parts you should lube on the frame are the slide rails and the trigger connector, nothing else. If you lube the slide, only lube the rails, and the area in front of the barrel lockup ("top" area between the front sight and the barrel lock on the slide). Do not lube any of the rearward parts on the striker end of the slide. And never lube the sear or striker assembly. Don't be afraid to lube your gun. If you choose to use the q-tip method, it will surprise you how well the gun operates with such a small amount of lubricant. Hope that helps

I don't even use oil. Lightweight synthetic grease, 1 _small_ dab, inside each of the 4 supporting slide rails, plus one small dab at the trigger block contact point.

For a VERY thorough dissection on cleaning your Glock, read this http://corneredcat.com/GunCare/clean-glock.aspx. I don't recommend the full procedure she does unless your Glock is EXTREMELY dirty though.

Whatever you do, do NOT over-oil/grease. All the Glock people will laugh at you, and all the 1911 people will look horrified that your pistol doesn't SPRAY oil every time you shoot it, like a proper 1911 should

Update: Here's a nice YouTube video on a "3-2-1" method that would work nicely. I don't lube the barrel, but I know some people complain about occasional "squeaking" on a Glock. The method in the video works just fine, although I (as I've said) use SuperLube myself [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGobEpUO3Uc[/youtube]