Door Brace

[MONGOOSE]

Does anyone have experience with one of the door braces which go from the hardware set to the floor? They have been effective when I have slowly manipulated them to gain entry, but how about if you rare back and hit them hard as in a home invasion ? I just want enough time to get to a weapon( a few seconds).

[RoyGBiv]

For those of us not familiar with specific examples, some links would be very interesting...

My mostly-glass front door has been a concern for some time...

[MONGOOSE]

I'll look for a brand name...I bought them at Home Depot .

[MONGOOSE]

Master lock Co.

[MONGOOSE]

Laminated glass is not easy to get through and should meet any safety requirements your city may require

[Michael Scofield]

Is this what you're referring to?

[MONGOOSE]

Yes....thanks

[MONGOOSE]

My wife had someone come to the door and ran a poor me scam in order to get her to open the door. He finally left but not after he tried the side gate in order to get in the back. A locked gate and a territorial dog prevented that. He was eventually arrested on her street when he broke into a garage . He had been out of prison for 5 days. I just want to make sure these braces aren't a false sense of security.

[The Wall]

I have one of those on my front door which is mostly glass with glass side panels also. It works good when I try and go in the front door forgetting I put it there. Of course I haven't tried to force it because I don't want to damage the door. Like mentioned it would give you time to react for sure. I'm thinking it would take several good hits before the perpetrator would get past it. Would be a noisy proposition as well. My dog would also be going nuts barking at the first attempt at breaking in. Also have alarm system and motion sensor on the porch light. I forgot to mention a sensor that tell me when someone is coming up the driveway. That beep also sets of the dog. You can't stop them, but you sure can make it difficult. So bottom line is they do work, but nothing is full proof.

Here's the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Buddybar-10311-Do ... B002BQ4VBU

[Jago668]

Look up some of the door strengthening stuff on youtube. One of the biggest things you can do (apart from not having a glass door) is screw all the locking plates in with 3" screws. So the thin little door jamb wood isn't the only thing holding them. Do the same thing with the hinges. There are fancier things you can do, but a full set of 3" screws is like $8 for a door. If you are going to do multiple doors it is cheaper per door because you can buy a bulk package of screws. Then get some of those screw on window stoppers. Won't stop them from breaking a window but basically impossible to force up without breaking it.

[NotRPB]

I just want enough time to get to a weapon( a few seconds).

Late 1980s I had a glass panel door like French door. http://ahpics.com/outstanding-front-ent ... ite-frame/

I was away on vacation and forgot to tell a Police buddy of mine who had tried to contact me

On concern for welfare, they tried to get inside my house
I had replaced screws to the studs not just into the jamb
They tried spreading the jamb with prybars
They tried kicking it in
After 30 minutes they broke all the glass out crawled in and saw the lock that kept them out

https://www.google.com/search?q=flip+lo ... 8&oe=utf-8

Every exterior door on every house I lived since I was a kid I put those,, and on garage to kitchen door...Now I have 2 on each door (shoulder height and kicking height above & below the deadbolt) ...as it baffled the Police for a time...

Burglars do not think to feel for them probably since police didn't

simple to install and operate


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCTqrZTi6qU

I had to buy a new door; can't get mad at a friend for concern for welfare

I also had a glass top half door which got broke when someone forgot a key (Windows are cheaper to break) .

I do have a cheap copy of that doorknob to floor bar on my back door.

[MONGOOSE]

Those look interesting.

[Excaliber]

Does anyone have experience with one of the door braces which go from the hardware set to the floor? They have been effective when I have slowly manipulated them to gain entry, but how about if you rare back and hit them hard as in a home invasion ? I just want enough time to get to a weapon( a few seconds).

They are one of the cheapest things you can do to make a door more resistant to body force.

The reason they work so well is that they redirect the incoming force from the locks down through the brace and to the floor - sorta like hardware jiu jitsu. Neither the brace nor the floor have any give to speak of, and one would have to do some serious pounding to get past it unless a pane of glass can be broken and the brace removed from the outside.

Proper installation is key. The angle should be about 45 degrees (that's why they're adjustable - to account for different height doorknobs) and they need to be firmly wedged in place. A kick to the bar just above the base when setting the device does the trick. If they're not tightly braced, several hits against the door can cause the foot to move and the brace to fall away from the doorknob.

These devices also make a great addition to a master bedroom or other area where you may want another internal delay barrier to give you a bit more time to put proper welcoming party arrangements in place during an intrusion attempt.

[MONGOOSE]

Make sure you put one on the door to the garage. I read where more burglaries have there origins thru the garage door than anywhere else.

[Excaliber]

Make sure you put one on the door to the garage. I read where more burglaries have there origins thru the garage door than anywhere else.

I've seen articles that claim that most burglaries happen through front doors. Others ascribe the primary entry point to back doors, or windows. Now we've got garage doors as the main entry point.

I wouldn't put a lot of stock in that. In my burglary squad experience, I'd rank back doors, followed by front doors, followed by windows as the most used entry points.

However, none of that really matters when you think about it because if you leave a weak perimeter point and an entry is made, the fact that a burglar got in is much more important than where he made entry.

The door between the house and the garage should be treated as a perimeter door with the same provisions and procedures (always locked) as a front or back door. The overhead door should also ALWAYS remain down and locked except when in active use. Doing otherwise is an 8 foot by 10 or 20 foot invitation card to a burglar.