Surefire Defender Upgrade

[WildBill]

I bought my Surefire Defender 6P about 8 years ago.
It has been dependable and is a very well built flashlight.
My major complaint has been the price of replacing the CR123 batteries.
My flashlight didn't get that much use, so the batteries would go dead before I got to use them.

A couple of weeks ago I ordered a Pixnor CREE XM-L T6 1-Mode 1000-Lumen Cool White LED Drop-in Module for the Surefire.
It came in the mail today and I popped it in the flashlight. It works perfectly.
The light output with the new LED is at least 50% higher than with the standard xenon bulb.
The price was $8.28, shipping included.

I have ordered some rechargeable AW Orange 16340 batteries which should arrive soon.
They cost $8 for four batteries and $3 shipping.
I know they won't last as long as the CR123 or the RCR123, but they are a heck of a lot cheaper.
I will let you know how those work.

[MONGOOSE]

I have the same flashlite and same problem with the batteries, may I ask where you bought the upgrades.

[dlh]

I have a combined post/flashlight on my AR-15---forget the brand. It has two lights on it--the usual solid light but also a flashing/psychedelic(?) white light. Why would they put a flashing white light on a self-defense flash-light made for attaching to a rail? It would certainly dis-orient the bad guy it was shined at but it would probably also dis-orient me.

dlh

[MONGOOSE]

I found it on Amazon. Ratings are either 5 star or 1 star

[WildBill]

I found it on Amazon. Ratings are either 5 star or 1 star

That's the one I bought. It works for me. For the price, I thought I would give it a try.
I can't vouch about how long it will last, but I will be checking it out when my new batteries arrive.

[WildBill]

I have a combined post/flashlight on my AR-15---forget the brand. It has two lights on it--the usual solid light but also a flashing/psychedelic(?) white light. Why would they put a flashing white light on a self-defense flash-light made for attaching to a rail? It would certainly dis-orient the bad guy it was shined at but it would probably also dis-orient me.

dlh

Sometimes the descriptions on the products leave a lot to be desired.
I have unknowingly bought flashlights [not for attaching to a rail] that have strobe functions.
Some people think that a "tactical light" has to have a strobe function.

[WildBill]

I found it on Amazon. Ratings are either 5 star or 1 star

That's the one I bought. It works for me. For the price, I thought I would give it a try.
I can't vouch about how long it will last, but I will be checking it out when my new batteries arrive.

UPDATE

Buyer beware.
My gamble did not pay off.
I put in the new batteries and the new LED burned out after less than a second.
I guess I should have paid more attention to the 1 star ratings.
The CR123 batteries measured about 3 volts, while the new batteries were 3.7 volts.
Maybe this module can not handle a slightly higher voltage.

[MONGOOSE]

Thanks for the heads up.

[WildBill]

Thanks for the heads up.

I have ordered another LED module. I will let you know how "or if" it works.

[MONGOOSE]

Thanks

[psijac]

This is my favorite Surefire so far. 500 Lumen max/ 5 lumen min. I've lost two so far

http://www.amazon.com/SureFire-Defender ... fender+e2d

[WildBill]

New Update - I received my new LED module and installed it in my Surefire 6P.
The LED is 50% brighter than the original bulb that came with the flashlight.
The new module cost $9.99 shipping included.
It is Happiness At Home® Cree Xm-l T6 LED 1mode 1000 Lumens 3.7-18v Bulb Surefire Ultrafire 501b 502b
It dropped in and replaced the original without any kind of modification.
I am using it with two new AW Orange 16340 3.7V rechargeable batteries.
So far it has been running 30 minutes without problems - i.e. turning off or dimming.
It does not generate the near as much heat as the xenon bulbs.
After 30 minutes, it is a little warm, but not hot.
I will keep you updated, but so far so good.

I also installed an LED module for my Maglite 2C flashlight - It is working fine.
I ordered another module for my other light and will install it tomorrow.

[WildBill]

Update:
The AW Orange 16340 batteries started at 3.7 volts.
After 30 minutes they measured 3.1 volts.
After 60 minutes they measured 2.5 volts.
Light output did not decrease from start to finish.
This meets the stated run time by Surefire for CR123 batteries.
I didn't want to deplete the batteries so I am putting them on the charger.

[dcphoto]

I would recommend against using unprotected batteries. First, any protection built in to a $10 drop in unit is dubious at best. Second if there is no protection circuit built in to the unit you could easily over-discharge the batteries damaging the cells, possibly to the point of ruining them. The worst thing you can do is let them drop below 2.5 volts and since they have no protection, it can happen easily. If they go below 2 volts they can become completely unusable, and most "smart" chargers won't try to charge them. I try not to let my IMR cells go below 2.9 volts to be safe, and fully charged they should be 4.1-4.2 volts.

I'd suggest picking up AWs RCR123A batteries instead. They're more expensive up front, but will easily offset the cost in a short time. The protection circuit will prevent over-discharging them, over-charging and IIRC they prevent a charger from charging with too much current. I've been using AWs in my EDC light for about 2 years now. They each get charged every two weeks (alternating), so I figure I've saved about $100 in 123 primary cells since I switched.

I know I rambled a little, so please forgive that; and forgive me if you know all this already.

[WildBill]

I would recommend against using unprotected batteries. First, any protection built in to a $10 drop in unit is dubious at best. Second if there is no protection circuit built in to the unit you could easily over-discharge the batteries damaging the cells, possibly to the point of ruining them. The worst thing you can do is let them drop below 2.5 volts and since they have no protection, it can happen easily. If they go below 2 volts they can become completely unusable, and most "smart" chargers won't try to charge them. I try not to let my IMR cells go below 2.9 volts to be safe, and fully charged they should be 4.1-4.2 volts.

I'd suggest picking up AWs RCR123A batteries instead. They're more expensive up front, but will easily offset the cost in a short time. The protection circuit will prevent over-discharging them, over-charging and IIRC they prevent a charger from charging with too much current. I've been using AWs in my EDC light for about 2 years now. They each get charged every two weeks (alternating), so I figure I've saved about $100 in 123 primary cells since I switched.

I know I rambled a little, so please forgive that; and forgive me if you know all this already.

Thanks for your advice. I am still researching batteries.
The drop in LED is supposed to be rated to 18V, so I figured it would handle two of the AW batteries.
I read [on the website] that the unprotected batteries were a "safer chemistry".
What is the capacity of the AWs RCR123A that you use?
AWs seem to be difficult to locate. Where do you buy them?